Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 161
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

As Kyle from 6boost said, it was the only way to get a decent design. Worth it if the gains will be what I expect. Only way to get ahead of the pack is to go outside the norm..just gotta make the right selections ;)

Matt

Engine is in. Rear turbo inlet pipe fouls on the Strut tower.. I gather the manifold sits the turbo's in a slightly different position to std. More custom work required.

The Gearbox was also insanely hard to get in with the rear head drain...was hard enough with the Rb30 and sump adaptor which stops the motor tilting down as much. Its a pry bar job now.

Matt

Edited by BoostdR

If there are gains to be had... I'd be keen.

Saying that... by the time we'd buggered about with buying/fitting the manifolds, modding the intake pipe work, modding the oil and water lines, 'adjusting' the dump pipes/down pipes etc...

... aren't there a pair of top mount, external gate turbos to fitt- they may result in better performance??? for no other reason than there is not as much comprimise for fittment or wastegate size???

I don't know? I guess I'm asking the question- hmm.

What ever the answer, I like what BoostdR is doing- I can't wait to see the results!

Cheers

J.

PS. BoostdR- Do you get much low end comp surge? If so, I'd love to know if these manifolds help illiminate it..

I did have compressor surge before....only when boosting in a low rpm high gear. I feel the pipe kit will help this as I was still using the twin turbo pipe.

There are also alot of variation that could effect my rear turbo inlet pipe position.

Rb30 sits the head higher

Engine mounts position in the slots

Cast alloy hard pipe accuracy.

So if the manifolds are out a smidge and you used the standard rubber inlet pipes you wouldn't have and issue. Just very hard as the rear turbo outlet stops you doing that.

More findings today I'm sure.

Matt

Edited by BoostdR

Front pipes fitted up ok. I have modified the alloy hard pipe rear turbo inlet. There is about 5mm space from the front turbo wastegate and 10mm-15 to the strut tower. I also had to grind the upper suspension bolt for clearance as it protrudes into the engine bay by about 15mm near where the power steering resevoir is mounted. This has to be moved also.

looking forward to startup tomorrow.

Matt

Thanks for the kind words =)

I had to finish a 32GTR I had here today...took longer than expected so I have no updates for you.

I will get a some more pics. Makes more sense than my ramblings!

Matt

First start up, a few things stil to be finished

Sounds very sexual, quite different to before

Oil pressure was exactly what I was aiming for, 6bar(max). 1.1mm restrictor, std springs in reinmax pump

http://s1107.photobucket.com/albums/h388/boostdr/?action=view&current=fc70deb2.mp4

c8e7e255.jpg

7fe44cde.jpg

Seat of the pants results

Makes 1bar by about the same rpm, having said that it is noticeably more responsive from 1000-4000rpm. It makes 1bar just after 4000rpm however goes from 1bar to full boost in a few hundred rpm savagely. The motor also wants to rev, where as previously it would trail off around 8000rpm.

I had to drop the boost to 1.4bar as it's maxing out my 1000cc injectors. Will get some 2000cc for the dyno

The hard pipe kit has helped compressor surge, it still surges however is alot less and happily revs through.

Matt

Nice! Sound much different revving out?? So when are the new injectors and tune coming, and what boost are you going to run it to? Time for a new low mount 1/4 mile world record? ;)

I does sound quite different, louder and throatier. Injectors and tune won't be to far away. I just have to sort out some small issues, like why my Y intercooler pipe keeps blowing off and mounting my catch can... maybe also rotating the rear turbo outleft away from the front manifold.

No chance of a 1/4 mile run in Adelaide...we don't have a track :-/

Matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...