Jump to content
SAU Community

6Boost Rb26Dettt Manifold Install


Recommended Posts

I have pulled my motor out to install some 6Boost Manifolds. I have found some issue's, most expected.

-OEM water and boost hard pipes that run beside the rocker cover don't fit

-OEM twin turbo pipe doesn't fit. I have a hard pipe kit here and will update you all if it works

-Manifolds aren't even. 4mm out. If I hold one up and then tighten I can get it down to 2mm. Not to bad but I hope my Front pipe fits ok

-Both manifolds just foul on the head. I will have to grind the head tabs down as I also need the clearance for heat wrap

There is no doubt these will make more power with better spool over my stainless items. I will be on the dyno to confirm

Matt

Pictures tell the story:

4cf66aa9.jpg

c9b4e905.jpg

8200f9fa.jpg

4d1a93cf.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 161
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Diameter wise - whats the internal of the pipe?

Just thinking if it's actually larger, will it hinder perhaps due to lower velocity etc?

The runners are certainly longer ye?

Be interesting to see results. Certainly a pain RE: OEM piping/lines, but given the length of the runners that would be unavoidable regardless

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Diameter wise - whats the internal of the pipe?

Just thinking if it's actually larger, will it hinder perhaps due to lower velocity etc?

The runners are certainly longer ye?

Be interesting to see results. Certainly a pain RE: OEM piping/lines, but given the length of the runners that would be unavoidable regardless

The OD is ~42.5 same as my stainless mani's

The also are ~1.7times longer

Any gain will be amplified at my power levels so we should be able to see and get a accurate % for others to make a eductated decision if the install hastle and cost is worth the effort

Edited by BoostdR
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Indeed, will be good to see.

1.7x longer is interesting.

Dyno might not show difference when loaded up in terms of response, you'll have to get some seat of pants action going :D

Pics of old manifold by chance?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Indeed, will be good to see.

1.7x longer is interesting.

Dyno might not show difference when loaded up in terms of response, you'll have to get some seat of pants action going :D

Pics of old manifold by chance?

e1312463.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow didn't even know these existed. Can I ask:

1) Any dummy fitment done to see how these clear the strut towers etc?

2) the collector pipe - does it not fit by a little or is it just a completely different thing? ie is the hard pipe setup roughly similar in configuration to the OEM stuff, just some minor changes, or totally different? Just wondering if it's achievable for the DIYer (most of my inlet is now custom).

3) sorry if it's mentioned elsewhere, but what are the turbos?

4) is it intended that the mounting position of the turbos would enable the OEM y-pipe to connect up to the dumps? Or is completely different setup required?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. clearance to the strut towers not an issue

2. No chance of fitting the twin turbo pipe. The hard pipe kit I have routes differently to the OEM..away from the rocker cover

3. GTRS

4. Front pipe is meant to be a direct fitment

post-49288-0-77962600-1299210203_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You will need to modify your aftermarket 'twin turbo' pipe. The rear will foul the front manifold.

Front pipe will bolt in, no dramas there.

I had an issue with the stock rear o2 sensor fouling. That may have been due to the aftermarket dump pipes though.

Cheers,

Johno

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how do you get 4mm out? if so your front pipe will be 4mm out to... in wghat dimention are they 4mm differant?

The turbo flange level (height) when mounted is 4mm different. One is higher than the other.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update

I have ground about 2mm off my head tabs, now has enough clearance for the manifolds with heat wrap.

The manifold flanges are also threaded, why I don't know. They will have to drilled out to allow the turbo studs to poke through.

I have ordered some black braided stainless line and AN fittings for the water lines. I have also found a -6AN To 3/8 barb to join at the back of the Plenum. I will post up my order list soon.

Matt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any chance you can get a Nistune board installed instead and set the speed limit to whatever your tires can handle?
    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...