Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is my 2001 R34 GTR V-spec 2.

I've owned it for about a year and a half now. Its come a long way from since i bought it back in 09. The car use to have 350kw@wheels on the standard engine with tomei turbo's, v-cam, e85 etc. As usual, the power bug bites so i decided to have a big motor built. I chose Powertune Australia to build it because of the knowlegde and tech support they give when questioned. I've been to other workshops before but they didnt provide the extra edge/support i looked for in a workshop.

Engine :

Head -

Brian Crower custom Powertune spec cams

Brian Crower springs

Brian Crower valves

Brian Crower titanium retainers

Brian Crower adjustable cam gears

Powertune ported head

Block -

Brian Crower 2.8litre billet crank

Brian Crower rods

CP Pistons

Turbo -

Precision PT7175 Turbo (975HP)

2x Tial 38mm external wastegates

Powertune Exhaust manifold

Fuel System -

Powertune twin intank fuel pump kit

I.D. 2000cc injectors

Aeromotive fuel reg

Sard fuel rail

Misc -

Tomei oil pump

High Octane extended oil sump

Earls lines and fittings

Blitz air filter

ARC air separator

Greddy aluminium radiator

Greddy aluminium pulleys

Plazmaman drag intercooler

Mine's cam cover baffles

Garage Defend cf cooling panel

Kansai front strut brace

ARP head studs

Metal head gasket

ATI Balancer

Gates Racing timing belt

Haltech platinum pro sport ecu

Splitfire coilpacks

Optima dry cell battery

Transmission :

Standard Getrag 6 Speed

Ogura Quad plate clutch

Wheels :

Track - AME Tracer (grey) 18 x 10 +15 on Mickey Thompson ET Street radials

Street - TE37 (black) 19 x 9.5 +12 on Bridgstone Potenzas

Interior / Exterior :

Nismo MFD

Nismo B-pillar garnish

Nismo oil cap

Nismo gear knob

Nismo floor mats

Nismo 320kph cluster

Nismo GT tail lights

Bodyform copied nismo side skirts

Bodyform copied nismo rear pods

image0059o.jpg

image0038v.jpg

image0061rg.jpg

More pics of the build will be uploaded in the next few days.

  • Replies 296
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The car got a run-in tune on 28/2/11. Drove it around town for 1000kms which wasnt too fun being restricted to 6000rpm.

Finally got it run in and lightly tuned on 1/3/11. we had trouble keeping it strapped to the dyno under boost. but here it is for now. will be upping it again soon. currently on 35psi. we needed 3ppl sitting in the boot and 2 ppl in the the car to keep the car partially down

image0097g.jpg

I drove the car to WSID on 2/3/11 the day after the 602kw tune. At the top of the track the car felt unstable at 230kph. So this morning i went to Heasman steering to get it checked out and this is how far off my wheel alignment settings were when i raced last night. Still running all the stock arms so camber still couldnt be taken out of the front or rear. but it goes straight now atleast. =)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7a2kboctz0

image0108s.jpg

image0107o.jpg

image0109c.jpg

Powercruise 2011! 4/3/11 I drove it to the event on friday, saturday and sunday and ran around the track racing anything and everything that wanted to line up. The car has proven its reliable and able to crush v8's / tubbed / supercharged cars. Nothing broke down, nothing overheated. I was out there on nearly every chance i had. was a blast and very fun event. Not bad for a car thats just been completed. =)

awsome....any video of your beast at power cruz

What do you think those last videos were??? lol

A credit to all involved with this build, top shelf stuff!

Performed flawless all weekend, was great to watch.

Please tell me you let the capri win in the final? There was no doubt that the gtr had it the whole race, except that very slow change into third :)

That is one damm impressive beast you have there Anthony. Please please get some better photos up of the engine bay. It looks killer

lol, will do.

=)

awsome....any video of your beast at power cruz

those last ones are all from powercruise.

=)

What do you think those last videos were??? lol

A credit to all involved with this build, top shelf stuff!

Performed flawless all weekend, was great to watch.

Please tell me you let the capri win in the final? There was no doubt that the gtr had it the whole race, except that very slow change into third :)

thank u! lol.

yea from 2nd gear i smashed it into 5th missing 3rd. then i pulled it out of 5th and smashed it into 3rd. i had alot of airspace on him just before that happened. its all on the incar camera. hahahaha all good. was a fun event that i'd love to do again.

=)

WOW

big dollar spend GTR, that actually geting USED.... now this is rare and nothing is blowing up either :)

i looked at the videos, "you photos needs a bit of work mate"

and thought to my self god he must be running a Dog box or something and read

Transmission :

Standard Getrag 6 Speed

Ogura Quad plate clutch

how on earth does the standard Getrag keep up with this much POWER , "i must abuse mine a bit more now"

if you can build this car then you can get a guy to take some nice photos of that engine bay

WOW

big dollar spend GTR, that actually geting USED.... now this is rare and nothing is blowing up either :)

i looked at the videos, "you photos needs a bit of work mate"

and thought to my self god he must be running a Dog box or something and read

Transmission :

Standard Getrag 6 Speed

Ogura Quad plate clutch

how on earth does the standard Getrag keep up with this much POWER , "i must abuse mine a bit more now"

if you can build this car then you can get a guy to take some nice photos of that engine bay

lol, car isnt done yet so no use in taking high res pics.

Awesome work!! Must be a great feeling to have so much kw's rushing through the blood :) any plans for the box? Is it 3rd gear that u start to annihilate everyone or u actually get into fourth?? Lol

yea, its about 3rd gear that i start passing. nah no plans for the box just yet. i think i gotta learn how to shift into 3rd a little slower and itll be ok,

=)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...