Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

so how do you drive backwards in the rain phil, sounds kinda dangerou

Whoa.... talk about off track thread!

This is about getting a 33 GTS-t to 900kg guys, lets be serious can we.....

I think you'll need to use GTR front guards.

just remove the guards altogether , not like they are doing anyting useful

Thanks for all the replies . I have read them all. Interesting and helpfull. The car has been stripped of interior parts and has no seats or carpets, sound insultion taken out. Have the sprint v seat ready to go in with harnesses. The air con will be removed next. I am considering putting a carbon fiber bonnet on after the air con removal. I believe these can save approx 8 - 9 kg. after that will remove sound deadening from boot, few extra interior parts to go. BTW how much will the air con on an R33 weigh? how much weight would aluminium radiator save?

Took the aircon out of my 32 the other day, everything in the engine bay came to 14.9kg.

Aluminium radiator weighs a similar amount to the standard plastic one, how ever the larger size means it will take more coolant and thus increase the overall weight.

i saved around 8kg in doing the rear quarter and windows lexan. thats in a 31 though.

if its track only how about

fuel cell

removing hicas +all lines

titanium nut/bolts +wheel nuts

rotor with alloy hats

bonnet boot and doors in carbon

smallest wheels your brake will allow (i think you save around 1kg a tyre a inch)

alloy/titanium pipe work

etc etc

maybe even going something like a LS1/X/2 or VQ35DE+t lot of weight saved in alloy blocks and ive seen a dude pick up the 6 speed out of the VQ35 under one arm!

depend on how serious you are i suppose.

does the R33 have the same plastic fuel tank in between the spare tyre well and the rear seat the same as the s14/s15? If so fuel cells difference can not be as great and where i have seen most people place them is higher in the centre of gravity.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

As I see it, the front of gtst's is where most issues are in terms of easy weight to remove.

frp bonnet and guards are a no brainer. I have made an mould and pulled a set of Kevlar guards out, <1kg each. Front bar with splitter is still in the works.

Eliminate all the normal comfort stuff, sounds like you have done most of that.

The windows, reg etc in the doors saves 20 kg on its own. Trimming the extra fat off the steel door ends up lighter than carbon ones I have weighed.

I have seen an s14/15 strut front end in a 33. I question if the weight of a loaded car will flex the strut, but I am looking into this over the next week.

I think close to 1000kg is realistic and possible, that's where I'm aiming, I'm building it for 2A Sports which has a min wieght restriction. I'll be under so this way I can choose where it goes to balance it all up nicely on the scales.

Photos of front bar? :)

Also while on this topic, does any one actually know the weight distribution of Skyline models? (As in 60/40, 55/45 etc).

Has any one weighed one properly? How much weight from the front has to be removed (or moved to the rear) to bring out a better balance towards 50/50? (obviously would be very hard for a GTR with the extra weight over the front axles).

2nd pic from the top shows it. This is not suitable for a street car, it sits way too low.

Theres another pic further down that shows just how far the splitter protrudes.

track car only.

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=713232

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...