Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

which have you/would you use?

custom made cast iron ones.

Don't ever use bronze of any kind unless you want to keep replacing them every 3 months on a street car.

Bronze are rubbish and were only introduced in a time when materials were scarce and machining tolerances were much sloppier. Since then, most people forgot why they invented them and continued to use them due to their own made up reasons. Mercedes have recently changed back (after introducing them in the first place) to cast iron because they have finally seen the light and listened to the experts that were telling them for years.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357380-valve-guides/#findComment-5713494
Share on other sites

so what about these?

http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/supertech-valveguides.html

running them in a friends car for the past year and he doesnt have any issues at all

So you've pulled the head off and checked the guide clearance?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357380-valve-guides/#findComment-5713814
Share on other sites

So all the phospurus bronze ones are utter cheese too?

We have tried them all. Guide clearance after a few track days is usually a couple of thou larger at that point. On the street cars I have disassembled engines for. The one that was fitted with phosphorous bronze were better than the old style bronze guides but were still over clearance after only being built (by another workshop) within the last 12 months.

We recently pulled our race engine apart from the GTR which had cast iron guides made by our engineer, Chilton Engineering in Woolloongabba, and after 2.5 years of continuous racing, the guid clearance is still perfect.

Nissan use cast iron guides in all their engines from factory but usually after 10-15 years they are a thou or two over clearance on the exhaust side so we normally knock them out and have them redone

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357380-valve-guides/#findComment-5716853
Share on other sites

reading this makes me sad, just put tomie bronze in my head, oooohhhhhhhhhhhh

See how you go I guess.

I don't recall any guides getting to the point where they made stem seals leak or caused any other alignment issues.

If you get valve stem seal leaks 12 months down the track, check that first

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357380-valve-guides/#findComment-5718300
Share on other sites

i've had no real problems with tomei valve guides. they do wear, i mean they are a head service item after all but it's not alarmingly fast. think of them a bit like a bearing. there is friction between the valve stem and the valve guide. something has to wear. either the valve stem or the guide.... there is oil there to lubricate so not a huge amount of wear but over time they need replacing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357380-valve-guides/#findComment-5723087
Share on other sites

Honestly don't remember the exact price, was a while back. Got them from overseas. Like under $300 from memory.

That is pretty cheap! When i got quoted from Nissan they were closer to $900

thus opting for aftermarket ones

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357380-valve-guides/#findComment-5724323
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I have yet to see how the supertech Manganese Bronze guides perform but I'm sure we'll find out soon enough. The fact is, there is absolutely NO REASON to use anything bronze for guides.

What about for heat transfer pulling heat away from the valve stem?

I am doing some research myself to find out what are the ideal guides to use for my Ferrea Comp. Plus valves (+1.0mm); I have asked Ferrea directly what they would recommend so will report back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357380-valve-guides/#findComment-5755485
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...