Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Definitely. You can really feel the difference, even without doing some serious twisties. I'll get a better idea this weekend on the SA cruise.

I like it the way it is, which makes me wonder if I should sacrifice it for the benefit of having the plenum spacer. Not in any hurry.

if you get the 1000cc injectors you wont need the spacer lol.

the only reason i did the space was so i could fit injectors under there.

if you get the 1000cc injectors you wont need the spacer lol.

the only reason i did the space was so i could fit injectors under there.

What's different about the 1000cc injectors that I won't need the spacer if you did?

well scott found the 1000cc that he bought are the same height as our standard ones.

where as the deka 610cc were taller, hence the need for a spacer.

as iain said. i'd go the strut brace over the spacer.. especially when the 1000cc injectors scott got werent too much more expensive. plus it looks like ill be going bigger injectors soon. Cihan said mine are already at 80%, and i dont think im at max power yet

Yeah I'll have to get on that soon I think. I'll PM Scotty when I'm ready.

Dunc went straight to 1000cc, he should be experimenting for me. Wahlbro, 1000cc injectors and emanage tuned with Willall.

Strut brace is a Dolphin one from YAJ through Streeter.

You can check it out Sunday if you're coming.

I'll see how I go. The stagea won't be ready so might have to pull the cover off the 180sx and take it for a spin to meet up for a look.

I'll see how I go. The stagea won't be ready so might have to pull the cover off the 180sx and take it for a spin to meet up for a look.

Worth it. Do it. I turned up to the last one even though my M35 was still getting the exhaust done... hitched a ride. Good times...

You may be up for a road trip like all the other guys, I don't know of any tuners in the country (other than Cihan, Etuner) that would tune the emanage ultimate on our car. If you did find someone they would have a steep learning curve to iron out all the problems, Cihan has tuned my car many times over the last 2 years and has learnt all the tricks to our ecu already. Why dont you all get together for a roadtrip? :whistling:

The injectors need to be fitted when the emanage gets installed. Speak to Jetwreck for the turbo install.

And when Scott says talk to Jetwreck about the turbo install - don't let him tell you anything except pull the engine and do it the easy way...

I think he almost lost a few teeth and got coolant/oil in his eye the last time he did a turbo install engine-in :pirate:

Sean

You may be up for a road trip like all the other guys, I don't know of any tuners in the country (other than Cihan, Etuner) that would tune the emanage ultimate on our car. If you did find someone they would have a steep learning curve to iron out all the problems, Cihan has tuned my car many times over the last 2 years and has learnt all the tricks to our ecu already. Why dont you all get together for a roadtrip? :whistling:

The injectors need to be fitted when the emanage gets installed. Speak to Jetwreck for the turbo install.

i can do the turbo myself thats all good just wanted to know who did the tuning basically once all the upgrades were done............... would be nice to get it checked right now to see how she's running but if its an interstate hike than thats a bit of a drama.

might be intesting to chuck it on the dyno and get some readings also!!! could do that here in sydney and then send Cihan an email and see if its running safely.........

just hope my turbo holds up for quite some time then :D

Wagon Boy: I have a guy in Sydney installing and tuning my e-manage. Send me a PM or email and I can send through his details.

Should have mine installed and tuned in a few weeks. Just having a new suction pipe made and the transmission worked on.

Chris.

Wagon Boy: I have a guy in Sydney installing and tuning my e-manage. Send me a PM or email and I can send through his details.

Should have mine installed and tuned in a few weeks. Just having a new suction pipe made and the transmission worked on.

Chris.

im not ready for it yet i was just looking into it for preperation.................. cheers Chris, let me know how you go though :)

went for a run through the national park from stanwell tops to cronulla on sunday and damn the coilovers felt good........ the oil pan cover scrubbed out a few time but :whistling: gotta check the exhaust too hopefully that was safe!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...