Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice Theo.

Glad you find it nice and smooth to drive. You'll have some fun at the drags I think. A programmable boost controller will take care of that drop off. Does the ECU have that function?

Are you still running off the AFM sensor? What Volts did you get up to?

Did you get a chance to over lay with my 3rd gear pull?

I'm curious about the AFM voltage also. Mine has peaked at 5.00v on the Informeter, so I wouldn't expect you'd go much higher than that.

No one wants to know about your 3rd gear pull Alex. :yucky:

I've seen your cars get up to 5.12v or maybe a bit higher

Can't remember whose pipe it was, but I was flogging it.

We all know I pull hard, Dale....

:P

FYP.

Was that with one of Scotty's suction pipes?

I don't think my version; being (16ish% smaller cross sectional area) will actually get there.

Edited by Daleo

farkin lol.

Ummm, I know Leons was up over 5 (5.02), as was Craigs(5.12) -both of them have intakes. Rudis was up there too(4.83), but didn't have an intake.

Another car with a highflow went 4.88v with no intake

I suspect 5.12 is the limit - I saw it maxed from 5800-6800rpm on Craigs on the nismo ECU. Obviously each sensor will have a discrepancy. I also think that each progression of the ECUs have different cut off points.

Now I'm lucky to see much over 4v... but thats with the upgraded MAF tuned in.

Nice Theo.

Glad you find it nice and smooth to drive. You'll have some fun at the drags I think. A programmable boost controller will take care of that drop off. Does the ECU have that function?

Are you still running off the AFM sensor? What Volts did you get up to?

Did you get a chance to over lay with my 3rd gear pull?

yeah still running the stock AFM, not sure of the voltage u'd have to ask.......

we did an overlay but because of the different diff ratio they where to different to match up.

i cant quiet make an accurate response on it yet but the gearbox is quiet different, like it still seems to shift quickly but it doesnt have the harshness like it used to so i dont know if its the same or slower................... my thoughts are if its softer its slower but i could be wrong. and we played with the gearbox settings on the ECU but couldn't really determine anything LOL

The timing drop between gears definitely works, it is just too late for the shift, as in it drops the timing after the gearbox has changed. It makes for a weird power drop after the shift. We zeroed it all out in the end. It is understandable when you think about it, as the Fcon has no idea what the gearbox is doing, so it must work off the revs dropping or something.

I changed to the Nulon fluid in mine, dropping the dextron III that Kewish put in there after the build. Surprising how much firmer it shifts, perhaps the Nulon is thinner filling the accumulators quicker? It positively thumps into second and third now causing all wheel chirps. :)

Less than a tenth separates the four runs! Congrats, very consistent Theo.

Did you try to vary anything to get a different (better) result? Were you able to get wheel spin at the start line or too grippy?

  • 3 weeks later...

finally took the car down to pedders for a check over here's the list:

Front lower control arm & Inner bush - rear bush splitting.

Inner tie rod end - RHS has free play.

Steering rack - mounts are worn.

Front swaybar links - LHS has free play.

Rear X member mounts - both fronts are soft.

time to give Craig and Dale some work LOL

  • 4 weeks later...

i'm still getting fault lights and havent been back to get it fixed, apparently he's booked out for 4 weeks in advance. dont want to blow the motor,

i'll probly come down for a little bit but yeah i wanna see some of bathurst and i have some work to do in the arvo aswell, bloody cashies LOL

also i need a fair few bushes replaced aswell after last texi still havent got round to it been way to busy!!!

OK any of the guys running F-Con's might be able to help me out and of course Scotty...........

i might aswell quote whats been said its a it easier, but any ways Alex did a cipher log on my car and then i passed on the details to Jez and the question is as follows:

Alex: "there seems to be a problem with the ECUs AFR correction, because it is cycling to each end of the ability to % correct. To my knowledge this is usually caused by the fueling map not being accurate enough in the low range/stoich range. You can try disconnecting the O2 sensor, and see how it drives, but let Jez know, and I'm sure he'll be able to touch it up a bit. If it gets really bad, just disconnect the HKS and run the stock ecu."

Jez: "Have u spoken to Scott? He mentioned that the f con is designed for 350z and the 02 sensors cant be used accurately or something along those lines. Have a chat to him but of course we can check it on the dyno or road with my wideband"

cheers Theo.

I'm curious about the AFM voltage also. Mine has peaked at 5.00v on the Informeter, so I wouldn't expect you'd go much higher than that.

No one wants to know about your 3rd gear pull Alex. :yucky:

we done a data log and it got up to 4.8Volts could still go higher i guess didnt push it to hard.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...