Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

damn you i just had to cut down on spending and you come up with this.

Ok, questions, will they produce a relocator kit, i know i can buy elsewhere, but getting one from the same provider as the kit and lines and of equivalent quality is a big plus to me, if they'll make a kit as an option i'm sure there will be plenty of interest.

Second, once this GB ends can i still nag you for a kit like i did for the brake lines??

  • Replies 334
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Ok I will find out about the relocater.

Also found out about the sandwich plate. Because the sandwich plate has the built in thermosat there is no room for extra sensor locations. Makes sense as the only ones I have seen with the ports for sensors are non thermostatic.

Depends if this one goes ahead I suppose. So far the interest is a lot less than I was epecting.

I'm damn interested - but as I just spent (what I consider) a small fortune on new rims, I'm not sure I have the funds available right now to buy it. Annoying as I'd been pricing up parts for an oil cooler kit recently (earls core, greddy sandwich plate w/thermostat, braided lines, etc) - worked out around $600 - so this would be significantly cheaper... *sighs*

Excellent :)

Amazed people aren't jumping onto this. Doubt you can get a better oil cooler kit for under $1000 and given most of those under $1000 don't have a thermostat in them.

Put me down for a 19 row kit please :)

Or should I go 25 row? It will be going on a ~250rwkw RB25 R32, street driven 99.9999% of the time, but I live in an area which gets up to 45 degrees in the summer...

Yeah.

Also, since the sandwich plate doesn't have ports on it, where can I tap these from? Or do I run an additional sandwich plate to get the ports?

As in what can you put additional sensors onto? Well basically the best option would be to run a remote filter relocation kit and run extra sensors of that.

I emailed Hel regarding the remote oil filter relocation kits as to how much extra they would be. So will see what they say.

If it fits without needing an engineering degree or cutting then I'm in for a 25 row. I already have an oil relocation kit, would this bolt on to it then? Perfect it it would.

It's all good with a thermostat but what temp does the thermostat kick in at?

The thermostat opens up at a good temperature of 80 degrees.

:)

The fitting shouldn't be that hard. Like I said I will do a DIY for fitment into the drivers side duct.

As to the fitment of your current relocater kit, it just goes in line with the oil cooler kit. So basically any relocater kit fits (might just need two different sized fittings).

As in what can you put additional sensors onto? Well basically the best option would be to run a remote filter relocation kit and run extra sensors of that.

I emailed Hel regarding the remote oil filter relocation kits as to how much extra they would be. So will see what they say.

Yeah. See what HEL say about the relocator, keen to hear.

i'll grab a 19row kit phil.

doing the rb20/30 oil block is the way to go. for extra sensors just use a brass adaptor where the factory sensor is.

:)

The fitting shouldn't be that hard. Like I said I will do a DIY for fitment into the drivers side duct.

Thanks, missed the 80degrees comment watching Erics wakefield vids :) A good temp, those at 60 are just too low.

Looing forward to the DIY, and will hopefully fit the larger one as well.

I would love one but I have just bought an Earls thermostat for $200 and a relocation thingy just need the 19 row core. If anyone already has a core and just wants the rest of the kit Ill buy the core off them! Seatrab and Mocal are top brands.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...