Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With regard to these Walbro E85 pumps are people having issues with them circulating too much fuel and getting hot fuel and tank pressurisation as a result of it ? Just curious to know what happens in warm weather and traffic driving .

Also does anyone have pics of one mounted to an R33s bracket ?

Lastly noise , my 25T is not particularly noisy and I can hear my 33 GTR pump whining away .

I run E70 and don't think I'd ever see more that 320 kw , Nismo is probably the easiest and quiet but you pay for it .

Cheers Adrian .

I just fitted an e85 Walbro 460 into a V8 Soarer, I could barely hear it. If you instal it correctly it will be quieter than most pumps out there, including the Nismo/Tomei.

My twin 255 setup definitely heats the fuel on hot days, within two or three hours. No issues with the tank, just the pumps get a little noisy, and a little rail evaporation I think which makes re-starting take a little longer.

I just wonder about this hot fuel business with high Eth fuels because it obviously wants to boil a little more easily . The old Bluebird converted to EFI had a Carter lift pump and a Bosch 975 main pump and it used to have a few hot fuel issues with petrol .

I also remember once wondering what would happen if a FPR was T'd off before the fuel rail and returned the fuel from before the rail not after it . In theory the rails still pressurised but all fuel in it can only exit via the injectors . Isn't this how late cars work only with a dumb (non manifold pressure referenced) FPR in the fuel tank ? May make for interesting hot starts !

Also I've been looking at pics of the Nismo drop in pump and it looks very much like a Z32 VG30TT one with the bracket made to suit OE rubber mounts . For 300+ RWKW these are probably a no brainer and OE Nissan Japan gear tends to be pretty good , its just the Scrooge in me wants to know if there is a slightly more "cost effective" solution .

Also before I go these OE pump speed controllers , did R33 GTRs use "three speeds" where the GT25Ts had two ? I run a Vipec plug in and a 33GTR pump and I don't think I've heard its tone change except when the engine is close to stalling revs . Then it sounds like it slows down which can't be good . I think a battery supply rewire is needed here .

Sorry so many cheers A .

Sydney Kid posted a thing that you can wire to your airflow meter as voltage increases it allows more current to the pump. This however im not sure how it would work with Vipec I have a vipec too and would like to know how i can vary the voltage received by the pump depending on how i drive. Another option would be a fuel cooler but i dont see them being very effective for temp drop, they do help though

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm just going round in circles ATM wondering what to do fuel pump wise , need it to live with E70 and it seems some fuel pumps may not be long term reliable with these high ethanol content fuels . Fuel pumps are lubricated by the fuel and ethanol alcohol obviously doesn't do it as well as ULP so I guess roller cell pumps won't live as long .

I'm going to start a thread on those Walbro F90000267 E85 compatible pumps .

A .

Sydney Kid posted a thing that you can wire to your airflow meter as voltage increases it allows more current to the pump. This however im not sure how it would work with Vipec I have a vipec too and would like to know how i can vary the voltage received by the pump depending on how i drive. Another option would be a fuel cooler but i dont see them being very effective for temp drop, they do help though

Lowering the voltage to the pump will cause the current draw to rise, and perhaps cause the pump to stall/burn out. The voltage needs to be 12V minimum and switched as a square wave input (PWM) for the pump to last imo, although the Vipec could control a solid state relay at that frequency just fine at a guess.

my Nismo pump is quite noisy. Almost sounds like a dremel or shaver enclosed. But its only loud when its full and the buzzing lasts all the way to 1/4 tank.

Nismo is pretty damn quiet. Yes, it louder than an OEM unit, but not like a 044.

Something is touching somewhere and Vibing on it. Once the tank gets down there isn't as much fuel to move the pump around?

Funny, my 044 is the opposite. Much louder at 1/4 tank.

Mates have used nismo drop ins for years with no hassles as a lift pump to there surge tanks. Althou a wqlboro off scotty mn35 would be a better pump for e85 as well as cheaper.

Josh

Edited by Joshbigt62r

Quick question, mightve been answered before but I didn't want to start another thread, is the nismo pumps e85 compatible?

im pretty sure Nismo also considered race gas in their RnD. Besides Nismo over engineer everything they make i doubt E85 would cause you any problems.

I hope so. . Ive contacted an ebay seller about this and he said nismo couldnt give him a straight answer as to wether it would be okay on e85 or not

But yet again another(big name) retailer with his listing for a nismo pump for a r34 gtr states" not compatable with e85" !

Edited by StevenCJR31
  • 2 weeks later...

Thought I'd post in this topic rather than start a new one as my query is reasonably relevant to the conversation, but when installing the Walbro 450LPH pumps does the choice of sock have any influence over the flow? I'm assuming not otherwise they wouldnt have supplied two but I'm wondering whether using the smaller sock would impede the flow at all (pic attached).

The smaller sock seems to fit nicely into the bottom of my cradle so would prefer to use that. If it negatively influences flow though will use the larger of the two.

Cheers

post-132-0-09744100-1378603768_thumb.jpg

Just to bump this a bit - in the attached pic I've positioned the fuel pump in the cradle as I would like to mount it (upright - got the idea from trustr32 on here).

I'm just concerned that the sock might be too small? The pump is a Walbro 450lph unit as mentioned above. Does anyone think the size of the sock will cause any restriction problem? It does sit very nicely right in the bottom of the cradle which is why I'd like to mount it like this.

post-132-0-27429300-1378723262_thumb.jpg

I think u are on a winner with that setup as it also sits in the lowest part of the cradle and is really not much smaller than the oem sock.

What brand sock is that and what is the ID of the sock fitting?

That's what I was thinking, sits right down in the lowest part of the cradle. I'm not sure of the ID but it came with the pump so I'm assuming it's a Walbro branded sock. Maybe I'll just chuck it in and see how it goes - should be ok I suppose! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...