Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With regard to these Walbro E85 pumps are people having issues with them circulating too much fuel and getting hot fuel and tank pressurisation as a result of it ? Just curious to know what happens in warm weather and traffic driving .

Also does anyone have pics of one mounted to an R33s bracket ?

Lastly noise , my 25T is not particularly noisy and I can hear my 33 GTR pump whining away .

I run E70 and don't think I'd ever see more that 320 kw , Nismo is probably the easiest and quiet but you pay for it .

Cheers Adrian .

I just fitted an e85 Walbro 460 into a V8 Soarer, I could barely hear it. If you instal it correctly it will be quieter than most pumps out there, including the Nismo/Tomei.

My twin 255 setup definitely heats the fuel on hot days, within two or three hours. No issues with the tank, just the pumps get a little noisy, and a little rail evaporation I think which makes re-starting take a little longer.

I just wonder about this hot fuel business with high Eth fuels because it obviously wants to boil a little more easily . The old Bluebird converted to EFI had a Carter lift pump and a Bosch 975 main pump and it used to have a few hot fuel issues with petrol .

I also remember once wondering what would happen if a FPR was T'd off before the fuel rail and returned the fuel from before the rail not after it . In theory the rails still pressurised but all fuel in it can only exit via the injectors . Isn't this how late cars work only with a dumb (non manifold pressure referenced) FPR in the fuel tank ? May make for interesting hot starts !

Also I've been looking at pics of the Nismo drop in pump and it looks very much like a Z32 VG30TT one with the bracket made to suit OE rubber mounts . For 300+ RWKW these are probably a no brainer and OE Nissan Japan gear tends to be pretty good , its just the Scrooge in me wants to know if there is a slightly more "cost effective" solution .

Also before I go these OE pump speed controllers , did R33 GTRs use "three speeds" where the GT25Ts had two ? I run a Vipec plug in and a 33GTR pump and I don't think I've heard its tone change except when the engine is close to stalling revs . Then it sounds like it slows down which can't be good . I think a battery supply rewire is needed here .

Sorry so many cheers A .

Sydney Kid posted a thing that you can wire to your airflow meter as voltage increases it allows more current to the pump. This however im not sure how it would work with Vipec I have a vipec too and would like to know how i can vary the voltage received by the pump depending on how i drive. Another option would be a fuel cooler but i dont see them being very effective for temp drop, they do help though

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm just going round in circles ATM wondering what to do fuel pump wise , need it to live with E70 and it seems some fuel pumps may not be long term reliable with these high ethanol content fuels . Fuel pumps are lubricated by the fuel and ethanol alcohol obviously doesn't do it as well as ULP so I guess roller cell pumps won't live as long .

I'm going to start a thread on those Walbro F90000267 E85 compatible pumps .

A .

Sydney Kid posted a thing that you can wire to your airflow meter as voltage increases it allows more current to the pump. This however im not sure how it would work with Vipec I have a vipec too and would like to know how i can vary the voltage received by the pump depending on how i drive. Another option would be a fuel cooler but i dont see them being very effective for temp drop, they do help though

Lowering the voltage to the pump will cause the current draw to rise, and perhaps cause the pump to stall/burn out. The voltage needs to be 12V minimum and switched as a square wave input (PWM) for the pump to last imo, although the Vipec could control a solid state relay at that frequency just fine at a guess.

my Nismo pump is quite noisy. Almost sounds like a dremel or shaver enclosed. But its only loud when its full and the buzzing lasts all the way to 1/4 tank.

Nismo is pretty damn quiet. Yes, it louder than an OEM unit, but not like a 044.

Something is touching somewhere and Vibing on it. Once the tank gets down there isn't as much fuel to move the pump around?

Funny, my 044 is the opposite. Much louder at 1/4 tank.

Mates have used nismo drop ins for years with no hassles as a lift pump to there surge tanks. Althou a wqlboro off scotty mn35 would be a better pump for e85 as well as cheaper.

Josh

Edited by Joshbigt62r

Quick question, mightve been answered before but I didn't want to start another thread, is the nismo pumps e85 compatible?

im pretty sure Nismo also considered race gas in their RnD. Besides Nismo over engineer everything they make i doubt E85 would cause you any problems.

I hope so. . Ive contacted an ebay seller about this and he said nismo couldnt give him a straight answer as to wether it would be okay on e85 or not

But yet again another(big name) retailer with his listing for a nismo pump for a r34 gtr states" not compatable with e85" !

Edited by StevenCJR31
  • 2 weeks later...

Thought I'd post in this topic rather than start a new one as my query is reasonably relevant to the conversation, but when installing the Walbro 450LPH pumps does the choice of sock have any influence over the flow? I'm assuming not otherwise they wouldnt have supplied two but I'm wondering whether using the smaller sock would impede the flow at all (pic attached).

The smaller sock seems to fit nicely into the bottom of my cradle so would prefer to use that. If it negatively influences flow though will use the larger of the two.

Cheers

post-132-0-09744100-1378603768_thumb.jpg

Just to bump this a bit - in the attached pic I've positioned the fuel pump in the cradle as I would like to mount it (upright - got the idea from trustr32 on here).

I'm just concerned that the sock might be too small? The pump is a Walbro 450lph unit as mentioned above. Does anyone think the size of the sock will cause any restriction problem? It does sit very nicely right in the bottom of the cradle which is why I'd like to mount it like this.

post-132-0-27429300-1378723262_thumb.jpg

I think u are on a winner with that setup as it also sits in the lowest part of the cradle and is really not much smaller than the oem sock.

What brand sock is that and what is the ID of the sock fitting?

That's what I was thinking, sits right down in the lowest part of the cradle. I'm not sure of the ID but it came with the pump so I'm assuming it's a Walbro branded sock. Maybe I'll just chuck it in and see how it goes - should be ok I suppose! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...