Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haha thanks Matt!

Yeah that's crazy fast. Very happy for him that it's all working! I would say a 40 at PI would mean about a 37 at EC so definitely in the ball park when the conditions weren't ideal. Hoping for a dry day next Saturday so I can get into the low 40's!

I've been trying to think of advantages my setup and I may have over Mr Newton but to be honest there aren't many! I think I'll need to be content with being the understudy for a while :)

2.8ltr with up near 400kw's will do that! So jelous! I want that power haha. 260kph nearly. Madness. I'm thinking I might get up near 250. Will post up the data after saturday.

Hopefully like you say the weather is good for this weekend for you and you can give it a good crack Russ, it is a good track to practice on for WTA if you can't get to EC.

260klm/h well that's about 25klm's greater then what i can manage (235),

I'm interested to see what my top speed is now as well. It was up 5-10kmh at sandown in the wet.

Last PI with same power + aero i was pushing 230kmh. So 245-250, should be where ur at Russ.

Newton is pushing 200+ through turn 1 though!!

Anyway. Enough about the big red car. This fred is about me and my car! haha.

I'm very proud to announce a new sponsor.

Snap On Tools Clayton.

They are helping out with tools and bits and pieces for the team.

post-10715-0-00434300-1340707965_thumb.jpg

Car now has a new sticker theme with new sponsors. I love the Advan stripes!

post-10715-0-61646400-1340708132_thumb.jpg

Here are some more photos from Winton.

post-10715-0-51797800-1340708319_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-13331500-1340708454_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-82377000-1340708597_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-23616700-1340708552_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-07674100-1340709335_thumb.jpg

We also corner weighed the car and it's pretty even, and kinda light. I'd still like to get it closer to 1200 but not sure how close I'll get. Still gotta strip the doors and get the lexan windows in. Will probably get down to 1230 or so.

No driver:

post-10715-0-20891400-1340710249_thumb.jpg

With driver:

post-10715-0-30391900-1340710262_thumb.jpg

My bus is 1325kg with 10L of fuel. I was hoping your car was more than 45kgs lighter than mine as the only thing I have really removed is the rear wiper and the AC compressor...So to go to all that trouble for only 45kgs...i think I will keep mine as is and have it semi usable on the street

And good work on the sponsors! Import Monster still helping you out? You are going to have to get the air compressor out and give it a lick of paint of some vinyl wrap to pretty it up :)

It's weird but I can't bring myself to paint the guards and bumper haha. I like the whole underdog / budget racer look. If there's time I will get it painted but to be honest its a low priority.

Yep Import monster are still on board. Now also Advan and as always Ace Workshop.

With the weight don't forget I have a lot more bars in mine than yours. With only the half cage it would be more like 1250 or so.

great to see more support coming on board, good on those businesses.

re the corner weights, the overall weight but also the good split will really be helping. My GTR comes in at 1450, but it is about 950 front and 500 rear....so the outside front tyre is working damn hard on mine. Yours should feel much nicer into corners, and be kinder on the tyre as well.

Hey Russman

Have you sorted a sump? regardless what you buy you will need gates not just baffles and extra capacity. My tuner builds them. modified pick-up gated and winged. they arent cheap but non of them will be. i think $1200 bolt up no mods.

you also have an rb25 gearbox dont you russ? thats another 15 odd kg over a 20 box.

im guessing you have an unstripped loom? do you have factory intrusion bars in the doors? its been proven time and time again that stripping door frames has little advantage. viva garage used to do very cheap fiberglass doors that cost around 400-500$ most of the weight in standard doors is in the hinge and latch areas. not easy to remove them.

if you take a look under the back of the car and the subframe there is a lot of small weight to be gained. We were able to get bens targa car to 1230 in rally trim without any expensive light weight parts.

if you want to cut weight you have to look at everything as weight. and work out if you need it or not and how you can make it lighter. every little bit counts. and remember removing weight is free power and free brakes.

Good luck for WTA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...