Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SO i am stripping my 33 Gtst with a built 26/30 down for racing and am considering converting from a single GT3582r with a 1.06 housing to twins.

What twins to drop in is the million dollar question. Previously had good fun with a 3076r - is there a chance to do two of these. Aiming for good boost response say upwards of 3000 rpm. Currently have 310 KW so around this mark will be perfect.

Thanks in advance

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363127-twin-turbo-reccomendations/
Share on other sites

Save your dollar and change the turbo to suit your application, the 35R with 1.06 housing is more like your aiming for 400rwkw. You could simply swap out your rear housing to a .82 item and shoot for 350rwkw, response will be great and power will be thick and plentiful.

If your aim is honestly 300rwkw, the above mentioned 3076 with .82 rear will be an all out animal. I would recommend this over the said twins (-9s), not to undercut the stripey horse but redeveloping your entire setup to achieve 300rwkw is not necessary.

Consider the twins will cost you over 2k to buy, plus redoing your exhaust and intercooler, obtaining all the factory piping etc etc etc and making your car THAT much harder to work on.

You could buy a 3076R that uses the same rear housing arrangements and dimensions as the 35R, it will also have the same 4" intake and your intake pipes will even easily accomodate the change. The 3076 would set you back a maximum of something like $1800 from GCG and you would have near the ultimate 300rwkw turbo for a 3L motor.

Youtube amuse supra, its got a 3076R on it and has BULLSHIT levels of power/response.

Save your dollar and change the turbo to suit your application, the 35R with 1.06 housing is more like your aiming for 400rwkw. You could simply swap out your rear housing to a .82 item and shoot for 350rwkw, response will be great and power will be thick and plentiful.

If your aim is honestly 300rwkw, the above mentioned 3076 with .82 rear will be an all out animal. I would recommend this over the said twins (-9s), not to undercut the stripey horse but redeveloping your entire setup to achieve 300rwkw is not necessary.

Consider the twins will cost you over 2k to buy, plus redoing your exhaust and intercooler, obtaining all the factory piping etc etc etc and making your car THAT much harder to work on.

You could buy a 3076R that uses the same rear housing arrangements and dimensions as the 35R, it will also have the same 4" intake and your intake pipes will even easily accomodate the change. The 3076 would set you back a maximum of something like $1800 from GCG and you would have near the ultimate 300rwkw turbo for a 3L motor.

Youtube amuse supra, its got a 3076R on it and has BULLSHIT levels of power/response.

You are absolutley correct - when i built the motor , I was originally planning for 400RWKW plus - but we hit the limit of the fuel system - and without moving to a surge tank and additional pumps, I was stuck at 310 - hence the original turbo choice.

This year I have decided that my new project will be to race the car, and as such she is being stripped ready for a full cage and re-spray. I always knew that he current set-up would not be optimal and hence the question.

Cost whilst a consideration is not prohibitive, and i have no requirement for factory piping, unless it fits, as I have no need to remain RTA legal.

Back when she was an RB25 - the 3076 was a great piece of gear - but will it still stand now its 26/30 and is going to be raced. I reckon given teh cage, sprayjob, new wheels and tires, big brake upgrade, new ECU, electronic dash and all of teh other goodies - I am unlikely to see much change out of $30-35K. The engine is already built, so only the head will need work, besides a strip down and check/balance.

So the question still stands - single or twins, which will be thebest for a 970 - 1000kg RWD track car????

I am running 383 kw at the rear treads (dyno'd in RWD so as not to detonate front diff) with twin HKS 2530's on an rb26/30 setup. Still running (ported) OEM cast iron manifolds. Very responsive.

With tubular manifolds (expremes or similar) i reckon could be even more responsive.

What boost?

What other mods?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/275548-andrews-r32-gtr-bolt-on-build-thread-phase-i-of-my-mods/page__st__60

22psi. Anyhow, the main point is, the turbos are now the major bottleneck in the system, but the HKS2530's are capable of making that kind of power on a 3.0, even with stock cast iron manis.

2530's are bigger than -5s right.

So - if most people get 380rwkw on 20psi with -5s on 2.6ltr... running more boost, on bigger turbos, bigger motor... I think you've got issues somewhere.

You should be well over the 400rwkw marker.

no, 2530s and -5s are basically the same. few small differences in the HKS ones but nothing major. 350kw @20-22psi is more like the norm for a good set-up so 380rwkw on a 3.0L is about right. it's a good result.

most people get 380rwkw on -5's at 20psi? bit high wouldn't you say? - i had a dig through the rb26 dyno thread for 2530 results and from what i could tell, around the low 20 psi mark, 21,22,23 people were making 350-360aw/rwkw - which i thought was about spot on for the 2530's?

on 3 different dynos i've had 358, 353 and 357 around 21psi

High how? Look @ people like Aaron34, Tangomatt etc making 400-415rwkw with 2.8ltr's on 20-22psi with -5s

Im @ 365rwkw on 19psi with timing pulled out. Jack & Snowy both made 370-380 (-5, 2.6ltr). I've posted the graphs up before.

i had a dig through the rb26 dyno thread for 2530 results and from what i could tell, around the low 20 psi mark, 21,22,23 people were making 350-360aw/rwkw

Don't forget we aren't talking stock motor results. They do indeed sit around the 350rwkw marker on stock motors (hence i think -5s are a bad choice) - so no argument there from me at all, totally agree.

Built motors with some porting and so on make more in almost every case.

-9s and GT-SS are identical - 2530 and -5 are not.

2530s are bigger, and will make more power. A 3ltr, running more boost again (when you factor things in), evidence would suggest it should be higher.

Could be exhaust restrictions, or perhaps just a conservative tune or something else entirely.

It'll be good to see when Paul & Steve get their -5s tuned on 3ltr and 2.8ltr respectively. That'll hopefully provide some more results.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...