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Must sell to make room for more customer cars!

Konig Rewind 14x7-7 with near new kumho tyres $400 pair

Performance Challengers 15x8-10 no Tyres $400 pair

S15 standard wheels, pair with tyres $50

S13 Stock front and rear and $30 each

S13 front drivers guard, two, $100

S13 front reo bar, perfect $100

S13 rear garnishs $20 each

S13 dash clusters $20 each

S13 door mirrors $20 each

S13 tail lights, two pairs, $50 each

S13 steering column complete with keys and barrel $100

S13 castor rod brackets, castor rods, toe arms, traction arms $20 each

S13 sway bars, front and rear, $20 each

S13 Rear LCAs $70 each

S13 rear hubs with wheel bearing $50 each

S13 non hicas subframes, $80 each

S13 driveshafts 6 bolt and 5 bolt $50 each

S13/R32 LSD Diffs, various ratios, $200 each

S13 handbrake cables $100

S13 Heater core $50

S13 Dash, 1 tiny crack, black, $25

S13 interior switches/vents etc $5 each

S13 parcel shelf/rear seat sheet metal cover, great for track days $80

S13 front grills $5

S13 wiper arms $20 each

180SX 50mm no vent jap made front guards $250 pair

180SX front bar, standard SR type, $20

180SX front bar indicators, crystal clear type, $50 pair

S14 Series 2 front bar indicators, crystal clear type, $50 pair

SR S13 power fc and hand controller used in box with manuals mint $900

SR S14 power fc and hand controller used mint condition $800

SR S13 52mm twin core radiator, new in box $220

SR engine fan assembly complete $50

SR standard sumps $10 each

SR engine mounts $100 pair

SR standard exhaust manifolds $30 each

SR standard S13 intake manifolds $20 each

SR NON TURBO 60mm throttle body, upgrade your DET $50 each

SR TURBO injectors $40 set

RB20 engine fan assembly complete $40

RB20 S13/R32 52mm twin core radiator, new in box $220

1JZ twin turbo setup, all intake pipes, 2 turbos etc etc $100

CA20 gearbox, perfect, $100

CA18 HKS CAMS, 256 8.5in 264 8.5ex $300

CA18 Pacemaker Fireball Extractors $100

CA18 S13 52mm twin core radiator, new in box $220

Turbosmart Boost controllers, manual, $30 each

AE86 rear shocks, TRD Blue 8 way adjustable, perfect condition, $250 pair

AE86 steering knuckles $50

  • 2 weeks later...

Ive got one you can have for free mate if you can pull it out but it has paint all over it, could be cleaned off i would imagine... you could just cut the bodyshell up and take the whole rear pillars and get the glass removed somewhere else also.

PM sent mate

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  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 😂  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
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