Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i know this is sorta off topic, but the new r35 skyline. does it come in different model varients, instead of just GT-R. all ive been hearing and reading is all about this GT-R. but does it have different types like the r33's and and r34's, such as GTR/GTST,GTS,GT etc. or did they only do a GTR this time?

i know this is sorta off topic, but the new r35 skyline. does it come in different model varients, instead of just GT-R. all ive been hearing and reading is all about this GT-R. but does it have different types like the r33's and and r34's, such as GTR/GTST,GTS,GT etc. or did they only do a GTR this time?

Nup. R35 GT-R is on its own. No "Cheaper Skyline" variants.

Closest "skyline" is probably the V36 series Skylines in terms of components.

i know this is sorta off topic, but the new r35 skyline. does it come in different model varients, instead of just GT-R. all ive been hearing and reading is all about this GT-R. but does it have different types like the r33's and and r34's, such as GTR/GTST,GTS,GT etc. or did they only do a GTR this time?

i believe it is only the gtr with the interior seat differences and the exterior colour differences

why couldnt they have released cheaper models, or a rwd model to compete with other brands. its just stupid i think, them trying to compete with european supercars, instead or japanese monsters

Errr...

After the R34's, they continued on the "skyline" badge in the form of the v35, and the v36 then replaced that in the last few years. That, along with the 350/70z, forms the "lower spec rwd" model your looking at (v35-6 series has a range of engine and spec options). To that effect, the R35 GTR is not a skyline. Nowhere does it say it is.

Edited by sneakey pete

What's equivalent to the old 1998-2002 GT-T or GTR skylines nowadays where you get bang-for-buck performance? That's not for 200,000 dollars or for a super-car? A car that is able to be built up and not bought? Something for like 60,000 dollars where mods are not so restrictive? Also a car that can retain the feeling of a RWD / AWD and manual transmission. How about the nissan 370Z? What is a car that has heaps of street credit? Or is there no such thing these days?

there isn't all the bang for buck performance cars are hot hatchs which are all FWD!

Errr...

After the R34's, they continued on the "skyline" badge in the form of the v35, and the v36 then replaced that in the last few years. That, along with the 350/70z, forms the "lower spec rwd" model your looking at (v35-6 series has a range of engine and spec options). To that effect, the R35 GTR is not a skyline. Nowhere does it say it is.

^^ This

+ there was a Nissan Skyline V37, one of the latest in the V-Series Skylines.

i know this is sorta off topic, but the new r35 skyline. does it come in different model varients, instead of just GT-R. all ive been hearing and reading is all about this GT-R. but does it have different types like the r33's and and r34's, such as GTR/GTST,GTS,GT etc. or did they only do a GTR this time?

Nissan dropped the 'Skyline' name and just called it a Nissan R35 GTR.

Pretty much pursued the Super Car market while keeping the 350Z / 370Z at the Sports / Performance Levels.

yeah the segment is a bit down compared to 15 years ago but there are still some good ones if you are willing to think outside the box a bit.

golf R or GTI are great.

scirocco R or GT also great (even better than the golf).

370Z is one. pretty good but aftermarket is limited.

hmm struggling to think of many others right now but even stuff like RX8s can be fun with the right bits.

the obvious ford XR6 make a pretty rapid highway type car but not as much use in the twisties or circuit but for drag and the odd blast up the freeway they are good stuff.

why do so many people hate FWD cars? i'd hazard a guess that 95% of haters have never driven a decent front wheel drive and have probably only driven some crappy base model corolla or something like that. a decent fwd car is nice to drive. as many of you know, the missus has a SSS pulsar and even though it's 11 years old it still handles well, and compared to my mums corolla from the same year it feels a lot better.

look at the lap times the hot hatches get around the topgear test track. some of them are pretty impressive. too many people just dismiss them because they can't do fully kebab spec drifts. there is too much misinformation out there, usually spouted by people who have no idea what they are talking about.

as for a xr6 being scarey at 110kmh, seriously grow a pair. did it have aftermarket suspension and/or wheels? and what was the road like? if yes to wheels/suspensio then that may be part of the problem. hard suspension mixed with bigger wheels on a rough road will make any car, including a skyline, handle like shit. my sister in law's ex boyfriend has a xr6t that is lowered with bigger wheels and i've been through some twisty roads in it at speed and it felt pretty good. i also drive a vt wagon with 18's and crapped out stock suspension and poor wheel alignment (siezed tie rod on the drivers side so until i get around to heating it up to crack it it will have to stay the way it is) and even it isn't that bad. it isn't great, but it isn't terrible.

Ive only driven one highly powered fwd car, and it handled well through the twisties due to the weight or lack there of, but you couldnt get too happy with the throttle mid corner to power it out, Sure you carry a lot of speed in though. I cant speak for everyones hate towards them, but the main reason i would never buy a decently powered fwd is simply torque steer,

Edited by cannabiscorpse

Ive only driven one highly powered fwd car, and it handled well through the twisties due to the weight or lack there of, but you couldnt get too happy with the throttle mid corner to power it out, Sure you carry a lot of speed in though. I cant speak for everyones hate towards them, but the main reason i would never buy a decently powered fwd is simply torque steer,

engineering has pretty much cured torque steer.

I hate the feeling of understeer,

anybody mention the hyundai genesis, coming to aus apparently? only skimmed through most of the posts. seems to be a good base for tuning potential if you go for the smaller turbo motor

from what I read in the US they have the option of a 4banger turbo or a more powerful na V6, more potential for bang for buck aftermarket upgrades with a turbo motor

I used to race some pretty worked Peugeots both on the track and in motorkhana/khanacross. Them being a front wheel drive was never an issue. In fact, on the skidpan I preferred it; Skull dragging through a handbraked turn is wicked fun!

Let's face it kids. It's the end of an era. With pollies forcing global warming down our necks, and the impending depletion of fossil fuels. Makers pulling out of motorsport, investing R&D into future fuel sources and reducing our footprint on the planet through the cars that they make. Car manufacturers are of course going to proceed to create cars that the majority of us will buy; A-B Ecoboxes. As sad as it is to say, we're the last couple of generations to be driving anything of the sort. 100 years from now they'll all be trying to figure out how to add coils to their electric motors, or stabilise their hydrogen injection : / or something... lol.

But it's not all doom and gloom. Think yourself lucky to have been born in this tiny window that all of this stuff has come about. Keep having fun in your cars and remember that they aren't making any more, so try not to wrap yours around a pole so that J Lenno and Roger Farah's offspring have something to add to their inherited collections...Lucky pricks.

Edited by fastjetjockey

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...