Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GT3040 which is old school, 18psi @ 3900rpm. Boost is pretty irrelevant as ultimately it is all about how much airflow the turbo makes at each rpm level and therefore how much torque/power at that point.

The 0.82 has a nice linear delivery.

Thats prob too laggy for me plus is wheelspin gunna b an issue with more than 270kw on the street? Its great to have a large power figure but getting it to the ground is the other issue. Ive gotta kaaz 2 way and quite a good handling setup

Thats prob too laggy for me plus is wheelspin gunna b an issue with more than 270kw on the street? Its great to have a large power figure but getting it to the ground is the other issue. Ive gotta kaaz 2 way and quite a good handling setup

Yea, as he said, the 3040 is old school and it's also larger then what you're planning to run. I would expect a gtx3071 with .82 to be on full boost more like 3400-3500 rpm. as said though, if you want a bolt on solution for 250-280kw, it's getting hard to beat the current hypergear offerings. Both on price and performance.

Thats prob too laggy for me plus is wheelspin gunna b an issue with more than 270kw on the street? Its great to have a large power figure but getting it to the ground is the other issue. Ive gotta kaaz 2 way and quite a good handling setup

Mick the car makes plenty of power down low, it is not wheelspin city.

There are better turbos out there today than the GT3040 I have but it produces similar numbers to many GT3076's. I have owned and driven cars with stock turbos, bushbearing stock rebuilds, GCG hi-flows, HKS GT-RS, HKS 2835ProS and looking at a dyno plot will not tell you everything about how they are to drive on the road. When the engine comes out I am changing to a twin scroll GT3076 just to see how much (if any) better it is than what I have.

DaleFZ1 back to back tested a GT3076 with a HKS2835ProS and he reckons there wasn't much in it but preferred the GT3076.

Any turbo that can make 180-200rwkw at 4000rpm is going to be a very quick streeter regardless of what boost it is running...

Yes always the same debate over the gap in Garretts turbine range - meaning GT28 to GT30 and theres little feedback on the GTXs so far .

Theres also been uncertainty from those using the original GT3071Rs with some thinking in 0.63 A/R turbine housing form doesn't deliver while the 0.82 T housings seems a little laggy .

As Mr Woolaf mentioned the Mafia had some good times from his GT3076R/0.63 A/R turbine housing though he did use water injection to keep temps in check .

If I was going to use a GT30 based turbo on a street RB25DET I'd look for the mid or 52 compressor trim version of the GT3037S/GT3076R (same thing) and put the 0.63 A/R Garrett GT30 integral (internal) wastegate turbine housing on it . The 52T GT compressor is good for I think 90% of the 56T versions airflow and has a better comp map IMO . These like the 56T version have port shrouded compressor housings on them which removes ALL the surge issues people can have with responsive while powerfull turbochargers .

My take is that if turbo (turbine actually) lag bothers you , at all , use the 0.63 A/R turbine housing because thats whats going to bring the thing on reasonably early so you get to enjoy you car/engine without having to rev the tits off it all the time .

At the end of the day if you can turn and burn the tyres almost at will it doesn't matter how many killerwasps the dyno counts because you have more power/torque than traction anyway .

I have a 52T GT3076R in 0.82 IW form I bought a few years ago and I think GCG and possibly Garrett here in Sydney keep them in stock these days . I'm not so sure you'd get any great discounting from either of them but sometimes when you want things a little less mainstream you cop a premium . You would have to call and ask for pricing . I'm only keeping mine in case I built a dirty 30 though I have no immediate plans for that .

Personally I would not limit myself to the std dump pipe configuration with a GT30 based turbocharger , they work well for GT28 based turbos or those using the VG30 OP6 turbine housing but they lack flow potential for a 500 Hp capable turbine like the GT30 one .

Its not the end of the world to buy or make a dump pipe for the IW GT30 turbine housings and the easiest ones are the open or bell mouthed ones . Being a bit bigger in the turbo flange means its probably a lot less fiddly that doing the RB or even the T28 style ones .

I'm not that keen on the store bought divorced ones for these housings because some mobs cheap out by trying to hole saw two holes through the turbo flange and the gates outlet is the wrong shape and the pipe small . I think to make a divorced one properly means making what some call a "shell back" something like the HKS GT Pro S ones or the Megan Racing ones for Evos . Its a lot more work for something that may work if NASA frigged around with it for a week with lots of flow bench testing , $300,000 dollars later ... Bellmouth is simple easy and works well enough IMO .

Anyway this is what I'd do for a road RB25 where power and response is the requirement . You read here all the time about people who went with big turbine housings or bigger turbos looking for the big top end power numbers but they hate how their car now drives . Sure it makes the numbers but buzzing the engine everywhere in low gears so the thing gets going when they prod it gets REALLY boring REALLY quickly .

What I think the vast majority want is more poke starting not much if any higher than what the car had originally and it can be done if they think a bit conservatively . If you can live with 260 Kw maybe a GCG Hi Flow or a HKS GTRS is enough and it sounds like both would be more responsive that just about any GT30 based turbo .

If anyone you know has these can you go for a spin with them ?

Also I know others do good Hi Flows but its hard to impossible to beat the reliability of ball bearing centre sections , if you're going to work a turbo hard a properly designed ball bearing centre section stands up to radial and end thrust loads better and with less friction .

I'm in now way insulting plain bearing Hi Flows but people have to understand that plain bearings are less costly than small high temp and speed capable ball bearings so its a costing issue . If the price was the same no one would sell plain bearing turbos , its the extra for BB ones that some cannot afford and we all have to live within our means .

My 2 cents , cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03
My take is that if turbo (turbine actually) lag bothers you , at all , use the 0.63 A/R turbine housing because thats whats going to bring the thing on reasonably early so you get to enjoy you car/engine without having to rev the tits off it all the time .

At the end of the day if you can turn and burn the tyres almost at will it doesn't matter how many killerwasps the dyno counts because you have more power/torque than traction anyway .

Anyway this is what I'd do for a road RB25 where power and response is the requirement. You read here all the time about people who went with big turbine housings or bigger turbos looking for the big top end power numbers but they hate how their car now drives. Sure it makes the numbers but buzzing the engine everywhere in low gears so the thing gets going when they prod it gets REALLY boring REALLY quickly .

I actually don't see that many threads on what you said in bold on here, if anything I've seen more people moving up from high flows and GT2x based turbos to full GT30s. I personally moved to a .82 from a .63 56T GT3076R and never looked back - I found it incredibly easy to sell off too, there was a few people who had dibs on it (if I ever sold it) after being in or driving the car so I'm not sure which combination you are referring to as there are few people here running GT35Rs or bigger with stock engines.

ultimately it is all about how much airflow the turbo makes at each rpm level and therefore how much torque/power at that point.

The 0.82 has a nice linear delivery.

100% agreed.

In practical terms I'd doubt if either a GTX3071 or the "old spec" GT3076R 56T fitted with the 0.82A/R turbine housing would vary enough to notice in terms of spool, or top end airflow capability. There may be some slight difference in transient response feel (surely the lighter/smaller impeller spins up quicker into its speed range), but for me it's most likely a marketing driven release to pre-empt the EFR series release from BW.

And an RB25 with GT30 rear end that's producing 17-18psi around 37-3900rpm, and holding torque well up towards 6000rpm does feel quick and behave in a linear/predictable fashion. The difficult part is being honest enough with yourself to know whether you can access and use that sort of torque delivery or otherwise stick with a GT-RS type/size of delivery and response.

Hey Dale, how you doin' ?

Mick o,

I have the 3071 .82 rear housing with genuine 60mm turbine wheel. It hits full boost (gear dependent) at around 3,200rpm. But there is a whole lot more to it than that. It is already on the verge of wheelspin well before that in the 1st two gears. Wolverine, Lithium and Dale, like me, have had our cars for some time, and they are correct, the .82 housing brings power on in a controlable fashion. I am now at 268rwkws. Please dont think anything but the Garrett rear housing and 60mm turbine is any good. The limiting factor is the compressor. At 18.5lbs boost I'm at the limit of my power/torque production unless I go cams. But if I do that I just get all that boost but earlier.

Now, the GTX3071, it supposedly has more compressor left in it, I tend to agree. Lighter wheel, hmmmm, cant really see more than a bees dick in it. So maybe 10 more kws, same power curve. Gor for the old 3076 or if instant boost is required go the GTX3071. Either way you'll be better off than me and I'm happy. If you need a hand tuning, Call on any one of us. Please tell me you have PFC or better. Dump pipe is easy. Air filter to turbo no worries. Long term you'll be happier.

I really do appreciate hearing all your experiences with these turbos guys :thanks:

its been good to campare all your experiences with different turbo kits

since it seems that nobody has posted anything about how this actual garrett setup on an rb25 performs on the dyno and how it feels on the street has made me buy this turbo cos to me in theory it seems like id get more power with this turbo than the hks 2835 kai (which i originally purchased) and has made on other guys cars in here with only minor if any loses in response.

ill get all my facts and figures together and feel how it drives and share my experience with you guys hopefully in the next couple of weeks :worship:

Its gunna be interesting to see whos theory comes closest to how this turbo actually does perform (in the real world) since nobody has any personal experiences with this kit!:banana:

Thats prob too laggy for me plus is wheelspin gunna b an issue with more than 270kw on the street? Its great to have a large power figure but getting it to the ground is the other issue. Ive gotta kaaz 2 way and quite a good handling setup

Tao has accomplished 320rwkw from the SS2 which does not cause wheel spin in gears, between gears though, is a different story haha.

:thumbsup: Appreciate the offer mate ive actually been chatting with Jez from DVS tuning on helping me with the install and playing the AFR'S on the road a bit and get her running with the Z32 AFM and the bigger injectors( so hopefully i can COAX him over) haha!

your set up is making boost quick i couldnt imagine my Gtx making boost sooner than tha thot???

My car is running a nistune and i hope the gtx makes about the same power you have!

i would be interested in comparing the differences between our cars with the different kits too!:thumbsup:

Hey Dale, how you doin' ?

Mick o,

I have the 3071 .82 rear housing with genuine 60mm turbine wheel. It hits full boost (gear dependent) at around 3,200rpm. But there is a whole lot more to it than that. It is already on the verge of wheelspin well before that in the 1st two gears. Wolverine, Lithium and Dale, like me, have had our cars for some time, and they are correct, the .82 housing brings power on in a controlable fashion. I am now at 268rwkws. Please dont think anything but the Garrett rear housing and 60mm turbine is any good. The limiting factor is the compressor. At 18.5lbs boost I'm at the limit of my power/torque production unless I go cams. But if I do that I just get all that boost but earlier.

Now, the GTX3071, it supposedly has more compressor left in it, I tend to agree. Lighter wheel, hmmmm, cant really see more than a bees dick in it. So maybe 10 more kws, same power curve. Gor for the old 3076 or if instant boost is required go the GTX3071. Either way you'll be better off than me and I'm happy. If you need a hand tuning, Call on any one of us. Please tell me you have PFC or better. Dump pipe is easy. Air filter to turbo no worries. Long term you'll be happier.

Haha nice!:rolleyes: 320kw its a big juicey number but how long is a unopened rb25 gunna last with that kinda power? I have heard that the 250-270kw zone is the safe power limit? (so to speak)

Its a daily driver which I baby, never track and enjoy. It should last a while. Its hardest time is probably going to be on the dyno lol.

100% agreed.

In practical terms I'd doubt if either a GTX3071 or the "old spec" GT3076R 56T fitted with the 0.82A/R turbine housing would vary enough to notice in terms of spool, or top end airflow capability. There may be some slight difference in transient response feel (surely the lighter/smaller impeller spins up quicker into its speed range), but for me it's most likely a marketing driven release to pre-empt the EFR series release from BW.

And an RB25 with GT30 rear end that's producing 17-18psi around 37-3900rpm, and holding torque well up towards 6000rpm does feel quick and behave in a linear/predictable fashion. The difficult part is being honest enough with yourself to know whether you can access and use that sort of torque delivery or otherwise stick with a GT-RS type/size of delivery and response.

see heres a pic of mine old tech 3076 comp with the modified .64 skyline rear..

i can smash the pedal in any gear at anytime and it goes hard

296019.jpg

compared to stock

6june017.jpg

you can almost see by the size of it its going to choke..It is still very quick on the street with full boost 19psi around 3500 and the small housing does give great response it drops to about 17psi by 6500rpm though, as do most IG and once you get in the upper rev range over say 5500rpm it just isn't as exciting as it should be.

Its making around 240kw @ 19psi which is alot of boost for not much result, but it is an old tech compressor. A new GTX one would make more but not much, 260 maybe, tangles makes 250kw ,if i played around with cams and gears etc it might make more, but I'm not going to bother as its easier to just swap it completely..

its still good fun and very driveable on the street with stock like response. The bit of extra lag it does have helps stop it form stepping out or losing traction to early, so its actually quite well balanced in an unbalanced kind of way :wacko:

I was speaking to AVO and they said they still sell plenty of their housings so someone must like them..

They are not ideal though and you dont really save alot of money doing it.. so i wouldnt recomend it..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...