Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is an interesting result, falls over quite early for a cammed RB25 with a GT3076R though - wonder if there is a restriction somewhere or something. I would have expected a bit more, but I guess we have fairly few internally gated/stock manifold E85 results to work from.

  • 2 weeks later...

I wonder where you've seen that.

The GTX3582 AR63 isn't a good choise. It produce exact the same power as a GTX3076r but, came on 500rpm later! A GTX3582 Ar 0.63 doesn't make sense because the turbine housing is the limited factor! And with a Ar 0,82 it is very much to laggy. I say that with experience, because i've had a gt3582 Ar0.82 on my Gts-t with a external screemer pipe :-) ther's nothing to 5k rpm and than "bangggg!!" funny but not very useful.

Is there nobody who ha experience with a gzx3076r on rb25det?

I have gtx3076 .82 on my rb25...

  • 1 month later...

The RPM is calculated though, its usually not accurate from what I have seen, how can you know every car's ratios anyway? If you can't work it out from the graph i'm sure someone will have a guess for you, without seeing the sheet I can say it would probably come on hard around 4k.

My tune today didn't pan out, speed cut and a slipping lock up clutch ruined my chances of a good result with the 71. I will be back on the weekend with the SLD back in place hoping for 350kw.

The gtx3076r is similar in spool, if not a small margin worse, than the gt. The gtx really only comes to life once you start throwing lots of psi at it. Although.. Im sure a true twin scroll housing+manifold would bring the spool back to baseline.

Any luck with the tune Scott?

The gtx3076r is similar in spool, if not a small margin worse, than the gt. The gtx really only comes to life once you start throwing lots of psi at it. Although.. Im sure a true twin scroll housing+manifold would bring the spool back to baseline.

Any luck with the tune Scott?

I was seeing over 300kw in 4th at speed cut which I guess was around 5000 revs. Once I wire the SLD and get rid of speed cut again I will be able to see the outcome of my fine tuning. The MAC wastegate solenoid is working a treat now, it held a flat 25psi from what I could see. I will ramp it up on the weekend during the next run.

It has external gate, AVCR , 256cams, cam gear, maybe a 50/50 ethanol blend

id be happy with near 200kw at 4000rpm with 18-20psi

Why 50/50? how far away is Warwick from you? (or is there a Caltex up there?) You will see better gains from just running United e90 with none of the cold start issues we see down here...

You should come close, perhaps around 4200 revs? That's my guess.

well im doing all this on a tight arse budget and getting impatient, some parts like the HD clutch, walbro fuel pump, and now rear muffler with silencer may fail before it reaches 300kw

So i guess for now ill have to see what happens on the dyno, im thinking even 280 would be great,

50/50 blend is another cheaper option.

Edited by SliverS2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I like they don't raise their hands into the air when they shift their sequential boxes, seems to be a thing here in Australia lol...
    • I'm not normally one for posting random videos, but I thought we'd all appreciate the honesty about how broken our cars tend to be lol. Genuine skyline life here.   
    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
×
×
  • Create New...