Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah dude, totally. I effed that up. The Vehicle Rebuild Kit. or whatever they call it.

-D

It's my car boys, thanks for the help. I'm pulling the oil drains off today and hopefully it's wet when I start it.

  • Replies 128
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Gauges on my Stag are freaking out.

Temp reads at full hot, fuel reads at full tank (when it's not full), speed wont read when driving, rev's just bounce on 1k rpm and wont really go over that when driving and the KM's are reading 999,999km when it should only have 60,000km on it (it's a digital readout)

I've figured out how to make the gauges actually work though at times. I just switch it to on without starting it, let the gauges settle to where they need to be and then start it. This seems to make everything work EXCEPT the km readout is still at 999,999km.

Something electrical I'm guessing and I'm not too keen to mess with electrics in cars ever again after a bad experience.

Any ideas?

Anybody?

Before I take it to some random auto electrition.

you thinking of a VRS kit mang?

Yeah dude, totally. I effed that up. The Vehicle Rebuild Kit. or whatever they call it.

-D

just fyi......it stands for "Valve Regrind Set".........all the gaskets required after removing a head

Prob not necessary considering it contains a head gasket :)

just fyi......it stands for "Valve Regrind Set".........all the gaskets required after removing a head

Prob not necessary considering it contains a head gasket :)

Sweet. I didn't know that.... good thing ruby told me to grab one when he removed my head, I needed just about all of the gaskets replaced

-D

if anyone is interested in what happened sam checked the turbos were receiving oil and they are, and has had it looked at, and it looks to be a factory fault with the turbo/s .. bearings or something perhaps. so off come the turbos and back they go.... fun times ahead

dont jinx it!! haha. im not sure if he has taken them back yet, but i think what they do is they have a bench setup or something.. and they will test the turbos there. sam seems to 100 % think its the turbos though. not sure who exactly he has taken it to this week. i reckon if its a fault in the turbo they should somehow compensate all the work that it was to do a turbo swap with engine staying in on a 32 gtr!

My bro has a 1986 MZ20 soarer, 7m-gte auto. Has an issue atm, auto box wont change out of first every now and again. im thinking loose connection somewhere or faulty sensor. Everything in the car is electric, could it be the speed sensor on the gearbox? He has had the thing at an auto trans place in Holden Hill, he seems to think its either the TPS or speed sensor.

Quick post on a problem I had this morning. I noticed my (factory) boost gauge was sitting on just under 0 vacuum, and only moved up a tiny bit above when on full throttle. After spending the rest of the trip to work swearing at it, and wondering if this had anything to do with the almost complete rewiring that it just had (long story..) I popped the bonnet when I got to work to hear a loud sucking sound.

The end of the pressure gauge transducer hose from the rear of the intake manifold had split. It was still in place, but cracked enough that it was sucking air. It looks like it was just a press on fit, so a few seconds with the side cutters, and a cable tie to keep things in place and it works again. Hooray... sometimes it can be simple things that go wrong with these cars!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...