Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes might not be able to move it without Birds/Dezz/Rimon

with their powers combined, blah blah you know the rest

Got a Nistune.

Nope can't start

Just splutters and dies

would need a MAP sensor for that wouldnt you? to get it to run i mean

would need a MAP sensor for that wouldnt you? to get it to run i mean

Nein, it's basically 'modified' stock ecu you need AFM reading for the ecu to work.

yeah but if the cooler pipe is off, the actual air in wouldnt match the airflow measured at AFM and car would die. wasnt sure if nistune can run MAP, and im not sure hop MAP works either but thats what my brain told me to type.

From memory, Nistune can't be run as MAP, even if you try, you'd better off with Link/Vipec/Apadtronic/Haltech/Microtech/Motec/Autronic/whatever really.

Finish doing my reps of 100kg bench, feel pretty boss...Maori guy on the bench next to me does 130kg x 12-13, bar moves like it has no weight on it and he doesn't even breathe.

okay.jpg

Yeah ive been meaning to buy a pfc for a while now.. Though so much better new stuff, pity about the prices though :/

It's better but you don't really need it unless you're building an all out monster. Race Pace will make a Skyline with a PFC feel like factory, that's how my car runs, only with twice the power.

PFC ftw

Oxygen sensors, not so. Can't drive my car til Monday :(

If you know your way around HC I think you can switch O2 sensor off.

That is what I did when I had my 33r tuned.

If you know your way around HC I think you can switch O2 sensor off.

That is what I did when I had my 33r tuned.

Just unplug the flamin mongrel. It does the same thing. Lol shell be right

It's better but you don't really need it unless you're building an all out monster. Race Pace will make a Skyline with a PFC feel like factory, that's how my car runs, only with twice the power.

PFC works. Everyone knows how to use them.

If you want flex, link or haltech

If you want data logging and dash haltech or motech.

There are some others in the mix, but why would you take the risk.

Yeah the issue isn't the O2 sensor functioning, otherwise I would just unplug it. It's the hole I have in my dump pipe because I couldn't plug the threaded bung with anything but some sort of brass and plastic sensor/plug, of which the plastic has melted off, creating what I think is a hole in the plug. Don't like the idea of hot exhaust going straight onto other pipes and electricals, so I'll be making one more drive with the thing and that's to the exhaust shop.

Oxygen sensors are good things - when they function correctly you will always get better fuel economy out of them than you will running closed loop all the time.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...