Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

haha Nick maybe an intercooler or exhaust down the track probably not for a while though, new bike is first priority! and after being unemployed for around 3 months gotta re save some cash first!

Birds, prob best bang for buck r6 i've found

http://www.bikepoint...id=139F3FE2A257

http://www.bikepoint.com.au/all-bikes/private/details.aspx?R=13277674&__Qpb=1&Cr=10&__Ns=p_PriceSort_Decimal%7c0%7c%7cp_Make_String%7c0%7c%7cp_Model_String%7c0&__N=1432%20604%201430%201429%201626%201428%204294967267%204294967096%2082&silo=1400&__No=15&seot=1&__Nne=15&trecs=39&__sid=139F3FE2A257

this one nice too, however those KMs look suss considering the amount of work done?

Can't believe R6 prices when equivalent year and mileage R1s are only advertised at ~$1000 more...I couldn't buy one knowing that. Keep waiting for a real bargain or get an older R1 IMO.

I like the slightly lighter bikes, r6 still has 120-130hp although upon researching a little bit cbr600rr is meant to be a better bike little less power but doesn't rev as high(105hp), only weighs 154kg dry too which is less than r6

edit: cbr don't look as good for the 2007-09 ish ones, hate that dash on it too.. no cheaper than r6s either

I was looking at small bikes for a girl I'm seeing and am amazed at some of the weights. Thought my old Virago was light at 138kg - CBR125 = 115ish and Megelli 250R = 112.

/subtle

I was looking at small bikes for a girl I'm seeing and am amazed at some of the weights. Thought my old Virago was light at 138kg - CBR125 = 115ish and Megelli 250R = 112.

/subtle

Cliffs on girl please. Sms is ok

Which XR6 turbo? After all the hype about them, I was quite disappointed when I drove a standard BA...granted it had no air filter; air straight off the turbo LOL

Cliffs on girl please. Sms is ok

You've seen her I think? The one who asked me out.

Yep...was thinking about swapping to third party, but with the way I ride, I may need the comp one day.

3 regos

2 full comps

fml

At one point I had three rego's and three comp. insurances. Man that was an expensive year.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...