Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is checking fuel pressure the best way to test if a walborough pump is working properly? or just safer to replace the whole thing?

Also chatting to previous owner last night (who is cautious, but also talks some absolute shit) and raised concerns about E85 on old fuel lines and seal (I have seen a document warning cars pre-2004 to steer clear of any ethanol blend because it eat through certian rubbers over time). He also mentioned E85 water/fuel separation if left stagnant in the tank for long periods of time... comments?

Please E85 propaganda experts, you're my only hope.

Fuel pressure combined with flow rate...

You can have a pump which can build up to 45psi over 2 seconds, and then a bung pump which can build up to 45psi over 10 seconds due to low flow rate... Only one of these is going to be able to keep up under high boost situations, do SR20's have a rising rate FPR?

We even for last night lol. But know you owe me twenty for actuator. But I owe you for muffler.

Where does it end!

Huh?

Why do I owe you for the actuator again?

I work on car for free then? Oh okay.

Hey everybody free repairs farken.

Im joking. I got one jd

This is not enough to cover an angry ass pregnant wife that thinks I'm having an a fair with scotty.

I work on car for free then? Oh okay.

Hey everybody free repairs farken.

Im joking. I got one jd

This is not enough to cover an angry ass pregnant wife that thinks I'm having an a fair with scotty.

LOL @ an affair.

In that case... A slab of ze german beer.

Most of those documents regarding ethanol and old fuel lines are propaganda written by companies with a vested interested in keeping motorists using normal petrols or distributors being overly safe for liability reasons...

And we may spout pro-E85 propaganda, and then it becomes he says she says...

But the difference is, that the pro-E85 people actually have thousands of running vehicles from the early 90s to prove it's not an issue. Now show me all those explosions and fires and clapped out fuel systems from using E85 on pre-2004 vehicles :rofl:

E85 for 6 months and counting!

St Johns First Aid training course tomorrow

Sitting in a classroom with a bunch of other idiots all day... meh, still better than work.

Just remembered I need to memorise a 47 page pdf of pre-reading info before I get there, blergh.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...