Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Duly noted, thank you peeps. And thanks for the butter recipe Ham. Omelettes are badass and their simplicity and low mess make them win at life. My omelettes are so busy I have to use a handful of cheese as a binding agent or it goes Hindenburg on me...

Would love to add vegetables for texture, but I don't want to mess with my all meat tastes. Parsley as a pub meal garnish is as far as I would go!

the humanity

Waxed bonnet, then cbfed the rest of the car so now I have a nice smooth bonnet but nothing else :D

Dat arm / shoulder workout rubbing that bitch off

Edited by UNR33L

Yuck what for?

was driving normally 5th gear doing about 70-75 in a 80 zone coming back home from work literally 2 mins away from home yellow one pops up out of nowhere tailgaits me puts the lights on and shit. Partner was a good bloke but main guy was pretty rude. He warned me for my rear licence plate for being bent and unable to read from a 45 deg angle. Got a fine for driving manual on auto licence (my fault for not booking my test sooner so not complaining left my car at site and walked home) but also for "failing to display p-plate rear" even though it was up and on factory uv cut tint that has passed Rwc he said he couldn't see it and gave me a fine and 3 points....I was on 1 point before this so licence is bye bye unless I contest. :(
I got done for the EXACT same thing.

It would of been 4+ years ago, on my P's in my N/A R33 just when green P's were just introduced.

Pulled over - done for manual with auto license (had the re-test booked but you know vicroads delay and what not, fair enough $150 and my fault) Then also said P plates not displayed cos you couldn't really see them that well through the tint, and with water on the rear window. $150 and 3 points for that as well, I wrote a letter to Vic faggotpolicegayflamin mongrels and got out of the P plate thing. From then had to display them on outside of car with magnetic P plate on the back which were sometimes taken but meh.. got through my Ps eventually.

Then got a 33r off Ps, random EPA etc in the mail and just had enough in general sold up and got a ford, buy a ford. inb4grant

No points at guessing which flamin mongrel pulled me over ;)
Edited by UNR33L
  • Like 1
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...