Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Go here http://hart.honda.com.au/

Call up the one closest to you and book in for a two day learner course/test. They will take care of everything including the learner permit / photo etc. All you need to bring is yourself and a packed lunch.

The minute you pass their test you can stick an L plate on a learner legal bike and go nuts riding by yourself. You have wait a minimum of 3 months before you can go for your full licence. You don't actually have to ride in these 3 months, I know a lot of people who didn't, but it's a good idea to get the practice as the full licence test will be using some bike skills (it's still pretty easy).

Once you pass that test, you can ride without an L plate. A year from getting your full licence you can get a bigger bike.

Thanks man

But learner straight to fulls for a year? Do you mean P's?

I'm sick of iPhone owners not using protective covers!

:( ive used covers, but they annoy the shit out of me! so i guess i have to put up with it!

They make the iphone4/s so ugly though. Personally i'd rather risk breaking it to have it looking awesome :D

agreed!

though it was a fumble getting it out of my pocket and then bang onto uneven concrete in richmond :(

I don't use protective stuff for my iPhone, I just take good care of it.

If I have to throw it, I'll throw it into couch or bed.

if only i took my pet spider to catch it!

Doesn't protect the screen but stops the back and sides from getting scratched.

Get yourself some 'bodyguardz' stick ons, great quality, pretty much invisible if u install em right and you'd have to try pretty hard to scratch ur screen with one on

Meh...my cover looks okay and has saved my screen plenty of times. But I don't really care about how it looks...it's just a phone, I talk and type on it. Every man and his dog has an iPhone so we all know what they look like underneath the ugly covers.

Dropped my HTC a bunch of times (including about 10 times at Stereosonic) and it has a bit of scar tissue around the edges, and a 10mm crack across the top corner. No cover or anything. Tuffer than Kris' brother

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...