Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have had very good work done at erd and i recommed them highly but I don't think my car will be returning there.

Yes I was warned, I will admit that I may have caused the engine damage, but does that really mean that I can't try to resolve my problems and ask for assistance on here now?

Just a note, what I assumed was detonation was actually a leaky gasket, although my engine did knock with the old turbo when I tried regular unleaded. Once it knocked I drained the tank and filled it with 98 again.

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Whut? How do you confuse det and a leaky gasket.

No leaky gasket I have ever heard sounds like marbles in paint tin?????

Stop asking questions if you don't want to hear the answers

Sometimes you just can't hear the knock. The sound a leaky gasket can give off is VERY different on many cars. I had a leak gasket on my old car, it sounded like someone tearing steel apart. I had another leaky gasket(cat and muffler) it sounded like a blup and only happened at one point in the RPM and I really did think it was knock. It is hard to tell knock apart from other sounds.

I was reading a magazine of my brothers and a cheap, and accurate, way to listen for knock apart from electronics is to stick a screw into the coil pack cover thread. Screw it in there nicely then get a length of hose and put it over that screw and put one end in your ear. It acts like a stethoscope. Knocks are head as thuds in the engine. This works almost exactly like a knock detector, it listens for the sound then gives an electrical output, rather than a physically audible output.

When my car was being tuned by the two tuners who done it, there was a difference in how they done it. Both used the power fc, both used knock ears but one said you can never trust electronics and when he was doing each run to test the settings he done, he would place his head under the bonnet, blocked ears and listen for the engine thumping around and believe me he heard knock the power fc and knock detector didn't show.

This is probably a stupid question but is the wiring harness/Ecu, intercooler, and exhaust all I need to change to fit an rb26, the neo uses a 26 block from what I've read so it should just bolt in no problems yeah?

You use the harness and ECU for the head you are using. Run an Rb25 series 2 head, use rb25 series 2 loom and ecu. Run the Rb26, us the 26 loom and ecu. They can be hacked up to work around other ways etc but its the easiest to make things fit.

+1

if you want to run an RB26 block thats fine, but do not bother doing the head aswell.

Put your RB25 head on with an external oil feed to the VCT port (easy to do) if thats all you can find that will go in that is.

To put a whole RB26 in with the heads and all you will need all the intake and ehxaust side to go with it, wiring harness and ECU. Not worth the hassle IMHO.

http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html

RB30 stock internal long engine (block crank, pistons, rods, oil pump, GTR head gasket, Complete R33 RB25 head, new water pump, cam belt, idler and tensioner bearings) fully refreshed with crack tested, straight tested, cleaned, polished and grub screwed crank, ACL race bearings, mint stock oil pump, acid dipped block with oil restrictors, power honed, decked, new high quality rings, new brass frost plugs, refreshed stock head with new seals etc, all assembled and painted (suit 600hp and 7000rpm) nzd5000 for 2wd or nzd6000 for 4wd with adapter plate and pickup.

Sadly I haven't gotten very far, I've pulled off the intercooler pipes and fixed a few things, but I'm rather concerned because when I removed the pipe from the turbo to intercooler, it was covered in what looks like metal/dust. I'm not sure if I had an air leak and it's just dirt or what's going on.

Gtst - thanks il contact them.

He has contacts through work that he can get most motors and gearboxes etc.

I'm pretty certain that he would be able to supply a NEO motor and fit it for cheaper than you will find elsewhere.

I'll send him a link to this thread to read over.

Not sure if he is a member here.

Yeah the rb30 short block is looking very good, except for the vct stuff. Plus il need a new turbo. It looks like il just do a complete rebuild at the moment, just not sure if I should do the water pump/timing belt too, they were only done 50000 km ago.

Wither its got VCT or not it spools up a 500HP turbo like a R33 on stock turbo. definitly worth going for, I can modify your current turbo to a G3 at no cost, which is good for about 300rwkws bolton.

You will need to get a NA cam with came gear, and an different timing belt. Check Rb30det section

Il see how it looks on the inside and compare prices. I just don't want to change the ecu, r33 would mean a new ecu, I might email rips and see what it will cost to put my head on a rb30 short block.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...