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I have had very good work done at erd and i recommed them highly but I don't think my car will be returning there.

Yes I was warned, I will admit that I may have caused the engine damage, but does that really mean that I can't try to resolve my problems and ask for assistance on here now?

Just a note, what I assumed was detonation was actually a leaky gasket, although my engine did knock with the old turbo when I tried regular unleaded. Once it knocked I drained the tank and filled it with 98 again.

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Whut? How do you confuse det and a leaky gasket.

No leaky gasket I have ever heard sounds like marbles in paint tin?????

Stop asking questions if you don't want to hear the answers

Sometimes you just can't hear the knock. The sound a leaky gasket can give off is VERY different on many cars. I had a leak gasket on my old car, it sounded like someone tearing steel apart. I had another leaky gasket(cat and muffler) it sounded like a blup and only happened at one point in the RPM and I really did think it was knock. It is hard to tell knock apart from other sounds.

I was reading a magazine of my brothers and a cheap, and accurate, way to listen for knock apart from electronics is to stick a screw into the coil pack cover thread. Screw it in there nicely then get a length of hose and put it over that screw and put one end in your ear. It acts like a stethoscope. Knocks are head as thuds in the engine. This works almost exactly like a knock detector, it listens for the sound then gives an electrical output, rather than a physically audible output.

When my car was being tuned by the two tuners who done it, there was a difference in how they done it. Both used the power fc, both used knock ears but one said you can never trust electronics and when he was doing each run to test the settings he done, he would place his head under the bonnet, blocked ears and listen for the engine thumping around and believe me he heard knock the power fc and knock detector didn't show.

This is probably a stupid question but is the wiring harness/Ecu, intercooler, and exhaust all I need to change to fit an rb26, the neo uses a 26 block from what I've read so it should just bolt in no problems yeah?

You use the harness and ECU for the head you are using. Run an Rb25 series 2 head, use rb25 series 2 loom and ecu. Run the Rb26, us the 26 loom and ecu. They can be hacked up to work around other ways etc but its the easiest to make things fit.

+1

if you want to run an RB26 block thats fine, but do not bother doing the head aswell.

Put your RB25 head on with an external oil feed to the VCT port (easy to do) if thats all you can find that will go in that is.

To put a whole RB26 in with the heads and all you will need all the intake and ehxaust side to go with it, wiring harness and ECU. Not worth the hassle IMHO.

http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html

RB30 stock internal long engine (block crank, pistons, rods, oil pump, GTR head gasket, Complete R33 RB25 head, new water pump, cam belt, idler and tensioner bearings) fully refreshed with crack tested, straight tested, cleaned, polished and grub screwed crank, ACL race bearings, mint stock oil pump, acid dipped block with oil restrictors, power honed, decked, new high quality rings, new brass frost plugs, refreshed stock head with new seals etc, all assembled and painted (suit 600hp and 7000rpm) nzd5000 for 2wd or nzd6000 for 4wd with adapter plate and pickup.

Sadly I haven't gotten very far, I've pulled off the intercooler pipes and fixed a few things, but I'm rather concerned because when I removed the pipe from the turbo to intercooler, it was covered in what looks like metal/dust. I'm not sure if I had an air leak and it's just dirt or what's going on.

Gtst - thanks il contact them.

He has contacts through work that he can get most motors and gearboxes etc.

I'm pretty certain that he would be able to supply a NEO motor and fit it for cheaper than you will find elsewhere.

I'll send him a link to this thread to read over.

Not sure if he is a member here.

Yeah the rb30 short block is looking very good, except for the vct stuff. Plus il need a new turbo. It looks like il just do a complete rebuild at the moment, just not sure if I should do the water pump/timing belt too, they were only done 50000 km ago.

Wither its got VCT or not it spools up a 500HP turbo like a R33 on stock turbo. definitly worth going for, I can modify your current turbo to a G3 at no cost, which is good for about 300rwkws bolton.

You will need to get a NA cam with came gear, and an different timing belt. Check Rb30det section

Il see how it looks on the inside and compare prices. I just don't want to change the ecu, r33 would mean a new ecu, I might email rips and see what it will cost to put my head on a rb30 short block.

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