Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 115
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I love reading these threads, makes me feel even better about my mint r32 Nismo edition parked up in my garage. Also makes me want to say no to tracking it anymore and to build somthing that I can crash and not care about.

So it's a Winn Winn hahahahaha

Very nice car mate.

I love reading these threads, makes me feel even better about my mint r32 Nismo edition parked up in my garage. Also makes me want to say no to tracking it anymore and to build somthing that I can crash and not care about.

So it's a Winn Winn hahahahaha

For the money you want to spend you won't find what your after.

not looking for stockers, looking for one with a rebuild if possible, or atleast one with upgraded turbo(s) with al supporting mods

shouldnt be hard to find :P lol

Ive been in the market for a 32 GTR for me / GTST for my girlfriend for a while myself now, Sold my mint one back in 09 and have regretted it ever since and basically been searching for another since then. I have reached the point where I'm basically ready to give up, I have scoured the import dealers and they are way overpriced and in such sad condition, and the private ones just as bad and many with terrible dodgy mods, but a few grand cheaper,

I think its time to accept its a 22 year old performance car that has been used and abused for all its life and finding a mint one like my last one will be near impossible. I ended up buying a clean 33 GTST to try tide me over and that was nothing but a nightmare, looked clean but engine / driveline started showing huge problems just a few days later so I fixed it up and sold it.

I might just buy a 06 WRX or something now and just have one nice car instead of a GTR and a daily, I have considered a 34 as they are newer but I don't like the look of the GTT and my budget is 20 - 25k so a 34 GTR is out of reach.

I'm sure theres some good ones hiding out there somewhere, just unfortunately I think I've ran out of patience. Good luck with your search.

Good ones are definitely out there.

I had one.. About a year and a bit ago. 65k chassis, 3k built motor, interior as new, basically mint. (shitty pictures, sorry, seriously doesn't do it justice)

Resides in Syd still on these WA plates.

th_DSC_0273.jpg th_DSC03790.jpg th_DSC03789.jpg th_DSC03786.jpg th_DSC03783.jpg th_DSC03575.jpg th_DSC03709.jpg th_DSC00237.jpg th_DSC03578.jpg th_DSC03583.jpg (R33 GTR LM belongs to Pal on here)

Sold it with stock wheels (what new owner wanted), switch was for 4wd/2wd iirc... Can't remember what the washers in the bonnet were for.. That's why it sits high near the windscreen.

Buyer said it was the 14th one he looked at before buying..

I missed it so much that same as others, I started hunting for another not long after... (Also built motor etc)

th_243220_10150254633954188_722749187_8972254_3775466_o.jpg th_IMG_1995.jpg th_IMG_7703.jpg th_IMG_7707.jpg th_IMG_7721.jpg th_IMG_7725.jpg th_IMG_7726.jpg th_5743515461_22ca1d7d35_b.jpg th_5490961464_951d7e05c9_o.jpg (Yes, it did briefly have a carbon GT wing on a spare boot but that got quickly changed in favour of a stocky and only went on for track events)

Sold this to someone in Perth who is FIFO so I'll probably never see it again as he also doesn't cruise etc sad.gif

They are definitely out there so just keep looking :)

I definitely see myself in another one in the future for sure but will be a good few years before I return..... And I bet there will still be good ones out there yes.gif

edit: This one ticks nearly all the boxes for me... Minus steering wheel, wheels, tail lights and possibly GTS4 gearing, this looks really good on paper... Pity I'm not in the position to buy atm....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R32-GTR-Skyline-580HP-ATW-New-motor-Tidy-car-432KW-ATW-/190630689524?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item2c62797af4#ht_2184wt_1270

Edited by 10 4

those ones awesome !! i want to get my hands on something like that :)

going to see a bayside blue r32 gtr tomorow, forged rebuild 25/30's etc...hopefuly its not a disappointment

There was a grade 5 R32 gtr with only 8000kms that went through auction in Jap the other day. Grade 4.5 Silver one with 17,000kms.

Both had service records. Heaps of nice ones at the dealerships in Jap too.

Inspected afew already, got afew more next weekend to see and afew in qld too, not gonna jump into one just yet as I want to get them thoroughly inspected and be 100% sure with my decision.

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

Sorry to re-hash this tread but.............. I bought what I think is a nice car from a fellow forum member in Victoria yesterday.

Drove 931kms yesterday in 11 hours with 3 stops.... never missed a beat except for a problem in selecting reverse.

Fortunately I was going forward all day not backwards so it didn't really affect me!

I'll give it some love and attention so it should come up really nice.

I love original straight cars........

The good news……

2 owners in Australia since 2007.

106,000 genuine kms.

Full history since coming to Australia.

Japanese export papers.

Australian import documents

ADR Compliance papers

2 x Victorian Roadworthy Certificates. One in 2007 and one 2008.

2 major services, 1 minor plus new OEM radiator, RBD front rotors plus new pads plus other general servicing work + new battery.

It has original exhaust, wheels, 100% stock as a rock under the bonnet.

Car has original rear speakers with upgraded fronts behind the STD grills.

I have OEM radio cassette to be fitted. So ICE will be stock.

Original windscreen and mouldings.

Great OEM steering wheel and gear knob.

The not so good news…… Please advise on costs where applicable please.

Tyres are absolute rubbish…. Yokohama S Drives…… Rears are gone and fronts are FxxKING NOISY AS BUGGARY! - $660.00 for Bridgestones, RE002's….

Hard to select Reverse…. Linkages or lock out playing up. Any common problem here?

Thrust bearing needs replacement. - Could someone advise approx cost for that all up for parts and labour?

Climate control won't heat, air conditioning excellent though. Regardless of temperature setting it cools as if it's on maximum cold. Will a replacement climate control unit fix these issues or are the problems most likely somewhere else?

Small dash bubble.

Globe blown behind Volt gauge. Is this fixable or am I better off just buying another trio of gauges for $100?

Needs major service and some. - $1000.00

Needs to be blue slipped and registered in NSW for 12 months - $1350.00

A few dings here and there and a bit of paintwork (wiper arms.YUK!) to be fixed, approx $200.00.

Interior needs a bit of work, mainly driver's seat.

All up, I hope I'll get the car within my budget.

Here are some pics...

Thanks for looking..... Bob.

9f224b2f.jpg

bab8dcbc.jpg

dbbc98da.jpg

8f4381c5.jpg

1059862b.jpg

6c00aecf.jpg

ca57665b.jpg

f16a4495.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...