Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, after much deliberation, i am going to throw together a quick build thread that will evolve over time as the engine is built. In this ill try and give out as many pointers and tips as to what im doing/done and why ive done/am doing it.

OK, where to start....

I purchased the car back in 2002 from a small importer in brisvegas for a princely sum. It had a catback exhaust and that is about it. I was pleasantly surprised by the grunt it had and the klms were what sold me on this car. 38000k's on a neat 97 s2 MP1 coupe. These K's were verified by a friend i had in japan after we scoured through the service history of the car, so i was reasonably pleased

I was happy with this power for a few years and after running nearly clinical and consistent 12.5sec passes at our local goat track, it was getting to me. It started when i blew up the box after a spirited drive at a khana event. I purchased a PAR box(NEVER GAIN) of which we had removed and fixed no less than seven times. While this saga was unfolding i got a little edgy and spent a few bucks on a set of fujitsubo front pipes, hks dump pipes, k+n panel filter, vi-pec plugin, 550cc denso injectors and a set of -5''s. After it was all sorted i made a semi healthy 477whp but never got to take it to the track.

Before the trackwork could commence i purchased a set of camtech camshafts from a forum member which came up at 266deg. 9.45mm lift on both the intake and exhaust so off to a local shop it went to have them installed. It took 5 weeks for the work to be completed and cost me just shy of 1200 bucks, neither of which i was happy with. When the car was started by myself it was very very choppy at idle and excessively smoky. I thought hey, maybe its like this as it is in need of a tune due to the camshafts, so i started to putt it down the road like a 75year old in a lambo, scared shitless id break it.

I neednt worry, it broke itself....I seen the oil pressure guage drop to zero, the engine stalled abruptly and it was making a god awful knocking noise. Onto a tow truck and back to my house so i could kick the missus' car out of the garage and throw it in there. I checked the oil, good. checked the cam timing, good, then i noticed an odd nut on the turbocharger outlet pipe. I looked further into it and noticed no washer....

So, out with the engine and guess what i found in the sump.....a nice little washer. after i pulled the oil pump i found the nut. Not too impressed, many words were said, many ales were drunk, much a tear shed.

So what to do? I called up brad from spool. Asked about a rebuild kit and he happened to mention a bit of a special on his stroker kits....i was sold, the wife on the other hand, she was preeeeety pissed. After some persistend smoothing, back rubs and general ass licking i purchased a stroker, arp stud kits, full gasket kit ect ect and this is where i am today. In this build thread i will try and outline some of the do's and donts of engine building, a few bits and bobs on how to ect ect and by the end if it, ill show you how i have done the engine and gearbox removal, by myself, in my own home garage and show you the little tricks ive learnt along the way. Of course, pictures will flow on as i recieve the gear from brad and the engine machinists and as i get time off work to tinker ill try document it with my wifes new cannon 60D which i will endeavour to cover in grease and grime......

Cheers, Allan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385122-homebuilt-rb28-gtr33/
Share on other sites

Got the engine block back today and got straight to work on it. Drilled out the oil returns to 9.5mm, took a bit out of the larger oil return galleries with a die grinder and chamferred all the oil galleries. Then gave it a hell of a wash and a solid water jetting then gave it the mandatory wd40 bath before setting about installing the ARP main studs i have here from SPOOL. I can tell you all that the off the shelf kit requires the trimming of 2 studs. One of the rear studs and the centre stud(long one) as the rear hits the sump and the centre one hits the driveshaft tube. I did this with a 1mm wafer disc and a 5"Grinder and did it VERY slowly so i didnt introduce and significant amount of heat into them then reinstalled them. They require approximately 5mm removed from them each. With any luck i will recieve some oil pump gears next week along with some valve springs and i can start assembling the head.

Now, speaking of the head, i took the plunge and had a play with the exhaust side of the porting. I got myself a few cartridge rolls and a few buffing wheels for my dremel(not cheap, so small yet so exxy) and set about mainly cleaning up casting marks, blending in the bowl area and removing the exhaust hump and matching the ports to the Greddy Manifold i have. This was a reasonably time consuming process as it was a bit of cut cut check, measure check cut and so on as its something you wouldnt want to get too lax with. Anyway, the end results were pretty good and im happy with them, i got them all flowed so i could match them by my mates old man(sneaky bugger has a bench) and presto! I also had a small play with the inlet, i just blended the massive steps on the port where the cutter had cut the seats.

god damn gingerbeers lol

Im a TQ auto mech, but ive been out of the game for about 6 years so im a bit rusty, but its like riding a bike :P

I was gonna study to be an engineer, but then i thought to myself, hey....do i want to be hated by EVERYONE on a jobsite? Do i want to be looked upon as Different? then i thought ill go try something else...... lol. JK roy :) You meet some great ones, then you meet the ones that need to be hit by a stray comet lol

Its amazing how nasty the insides of the ports are, both with casting marks and machine marks. Good work on cleaning them all up mate! You can get the catridge rolls for cheap off ebay and from a few online american stores. Same with carbide burrs. Stuff here is so damn exxy!

yep. Bigmike, its the spool stroker crankshaft, piston and conrod kit they have listed on the website. Im pretty eager to get it going but also pretty sure im gonna have to be careful building it at home. Already run into troubles with the machine shop trying to tell me that its fine to mix and match stainless and sodium filled valves lol. Ended up replacing them all with stainless valves and went .5 larger.

Cheers, Allan

As you can see, there isnt a great deal that needs to be removed from the oil galleries. I have marked them in black mikko pen here on the left and right rear drainspost-35544-0-18294400-1324363357_thumb.jpgand post-35544-0-37646400-1324363383_thumb.jpg

and here is one side as im cleaning it up for reference. There isnt alot of material you have to remove, just that you have to do it rightpost-35544-0-78518900-1324363506_thumb.jpg

Here you can see the ARP bolts that need to be trimmed and why they need trimming. The first one is of the centre stud that interferes with the driveshaft.

post-35544-0-65697300-1324363766_thumb.jpg

and the second is where the stud interferes with the rear of the sump

post-35544-0-41064200-1324363809_thumb.jpg

Guess ill throw some progress shots of the home porting i have been doing. I didnt take any before shots sadly :(

ok, this is about 1 hour in on the first port.post-35544-0-69633000-1324364312_thumb.jpg

and then after a bit of cleaning up on the topsidepost-35544-0-61557600-1324364342_thumb.jpg

and looking much better here post-35544-0-00509800-1324364359_thumb.jpg

Its a simple rinse repeat process and it is pretty time consuming and also, a big thanks goes out to Gerg-R31 for his quick piece of advice on the porting :) cheers son

Had a billet oil pump gearset arrive today from Spool, thanks brad. Also had some new valve springs arrive from the same company but unfortunately my conrods and crankshaft will not be available until after christmas, you cant have your cake and eat it too :)

As requested, le snake. We get a fair few browns around here at home but this guy is just a tree snake. Very pretty snake and a good opportunity to teach the kids about snakes and why they shouldnt touch them or go near them

post-35544-0-72600400-1324804312_thumb.jpg

post-35544-0-52890600-1324804330_thumb.jpg

post-35544-0-82715900-1324804346_thumb.jpg

post-35544-0-85201400-1324804362_thumb.jpg

He was asleep on the drivers seat under the gasket kit i had resting on the seat. When i moved the gasket set he sure got the shrts on and wasnt too impressed at getting grabbed by the head lol. The wife lost her shit as usual at me for showing her close up and surprising her, but the boy loved him and didnt want to let him go lol.

Cheers, Allan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...