Jump to content
SAU Community

Ve Commodore Wheel Arches On A R33

SMOK1106

By SMOK1106,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

SMOK1106 Contributor

SMOK1106

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, an idea has been floating in the back of mind for a while as I've been looking for a way to increase the width of the ass-end of my R33 without going down the traditional crappy methods :

(The NO-NO's)

1) 400R flares

2) modified 240z-260z flares

3) GTR style fibreglass overfenders

4) or even going to the extend (and cost) of totally replacing the GTS25t rear fenders with genuine GTR items - if not performed correctly, it could actually throw the chassis alignment out the window if the person doesn't know their craft.

Anyways.. an excellent alternative to metal GTR items popped into my head a while back when I was driving past a VE Commodore. Those Holdens have EVIL wheel arches ! big enough for 22+ inch fitments and plenty chunky ! Now.....what about factory VE Commodore wheel arches grafted onto the original R33 rear guards ? I mean, one can always simply take a mould of the original VE flares in fibreglass and do the SLR5000 trick but I feel that doing it properly by welding metal-to-metal would be a more durable technique.

I did a little measuring, on the VE, the top of the rear wheel arch sits about 10 inches away from the bottom of the rear quarter glass - the Commodore has a relative high window line which makes it appear like a friggin oversized sand worm from an old sci-fi movie.....but that's on a VE.... Now, what if... I was to line up a VE wheel arch onto a R33 body, the top of the VE wheel arch sits right below the rear quarter glass, giving it a bulgy look. Im going to do a rough render / drawing of it when I get a chance...... Looking at the way the VE is assembled, it actually might be easier to simply chop up the front VE fenders and use them instead, but I just know its gonna work.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385577-ve-commodore-wheel-arches-on-a-r33/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...
SMOK1106 Contributor

SMOK1106

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

1996-nissan-gt-r-r33-nismo-400r.jpg

I'd go Nismo 400 R Flared arches.

Will most probably be a straight fit and just run a wide offset.

Thanks man !!! .... you're right dude ! WOW ..... Not being a smartass here lol.... but I picked up my R33 from Powerplay Imports over 10 years ago before 99% of you guys even dreamed of owning one, so yes, the 400R kit would be a straight fit AND she would also end up just like all the other 30,000,000,000,000,000 R33 out there..... I would then be calling it a MAJOR ORIGINALITY FAIL.......

Oh I forgot, people here want their cars to look just like every other members' ....

Edited by SMOK1106
SMOK1106 Contributor

SMOK1106

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

This could look AMAZING if done right!

If it's done right, it would end up with a nice bulgy wide ass-end in METAL and not like this ugly plastic thing below..... I swear, who in their right frame of mind would actually slap on another 100 kg of fibreglass and body filler to make their car look like this ?? You know what's even more stupid ? The said person paid thousands to apost-72316-0-28051900-1325108351_thumb.gif shop in Qld for this pile of plastic crap !

post-72316-0-28051900-1325108351_thumb.gifpost-72316-0-55636600-1325108361_thumb.gif

post-72316-0-55636600-1325108361_thumb.gif

Edited by SMOK1106
SMOK1106 Contributor

SMOK1106

Posted
  • Author
Posted

go for it, i appreciate your guts to stand out from the pack and do something different. Kudos!

Keen for pics!

Thanks for not being a nay-sayer... Most of these people say 'no' simply because they're too damn lazy or too stupid to try something original.....I remember all the 'That wouldn't work' and 'That'd look shit' comments when we did a similar conversion to the ass end of a 260Z ( 4-bolt 350 Chev + raceglide + Jag diff = fully street registered and engineered) back in 1992, we wanted to give it the wide whale-tail look but we needed more width than what the factory plastic bolt-on flares could give us - we had to jam a pair of MT slicks under there..... we borrowed a pair of metal front fenders off another car and grafted those onto the outside of the rear arches .... I remember the looks we were getting at the old Eastern Creek circuit straight when she ran a 12sec flat off the trailer un-tuned. In the pit area, I distinctively remember people were coming up from all directions asking where we got that kit from. Gee didn't I wish all those nay-sayers were right there and then ?? enough said.

Will be posting visions as soon as the gas-axe comes out .... No guts, no glory.....

FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted

Thanks man !!! .... you're right dude ! WOW ..... Not being a smartass here lol.... but I picked up my R33 from Powerplay Imports over 10 years ago before 99% of you guys even dreamed of owning one, so yes, the 400R kit would be a straight fit AND she would also end up just like all the other 30,000,000,000,000,000 R33 out there..... I would then be calling it a MAJOR ORIGINALITY FAIL.......

Oh I forgot, people here want their cars to look just like every other members' ....

If you didnt want your car to look like a skyline why the f**k did you buy one in the first place. :rolleyes:

ahh 33 s2 Mentor

ahh 33 s2

Posted
Posted

There is a 33 gtst in Perth that has porsche wheel arches welded on, I don't no the guy but seen the car and ask who pumped his guarded and then told me they are weld ons off a porsche, they looked good and wide but subtle enough not to look rediculous, had massive GTR offset TE37s under them,

PewPew Proficient

PewPew

Posted
Posted

You expressed your idea, the others expressed their opinions. Don't flame them for being "naysayers"

If you want to do it, then do it. Its your car.

QFT.

Whats the point of this thread? In your mind you've already decided to do it, so just do it.

boiracer Grand Master

boiracer

Posted
Posted

Thanks man !!! .... you're right dude ! WOW ..... Not being a smartass here lol.... but I picked up my R33 from Powerplay Imports over 10 years ago before 99% of you guys even dreamed of owning one, so yes, the 400R kit would be a straight fit AND she would also end up just like all the other 30,000,000,000,000,000 R33 out there..... I would then be calling it a MAJOR ORIGINALITY FAIL.......

Oh I forgot, people here want their cars to look just like every other members' ....

cant say ive ever seen many good 400R replica with the flares and everything done right.

lotsa peeps with 400R front bars or bits, but not the whole thing done well.

the Commo guards could be interesting, but your inner guards prob wont work with the 22+ inch swallowing arches that a VE has.

doit! and let us see!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...