Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

changing gears easier would save you 5k

cost benefit ratio for you being nicer to your car is very high, and would allow you to be quicker at the strip.... as you would get to the end

lol

lol its no fun now is it :P

If you do end up chucking another stocker in, try Redline Light Shockproof. IIRC TO4GTR broke a few stock boxes, but then it survived after he switched to the Redline. Of course the tiny sample size means the evidence is very weak, but since most people dont break gearboxes at your power level, it might be worth a shot if youre not using it already. Or maybe PM him to see if he thinks.

What oil did you use in the broken boxes?

If you do end up chucking another stocker in, try Redline Light Shockproof. IIRC TO4GTR broke a few stock boxes, but then it survived after he switched to the Redline. Of course the tiny sample size means the evidence is very weak, but since most people dont break gearboxes at your power level, it might be worth a shot if youre not using it already. Or maybe PM him to see if he thinks.

What oil did you use in the broken boxes?

I asked for Redline but the mechanic put Elf something in... supposebly the 'recomended' oil

not gonna go there again thats for sure

ok I can get a OS Giken 3 gear set for $2,600

i think its a fair price... anyone know if any other place sells it cheaper??

also does one have any experience with their close gear ratios?

is it just going to accelerate quicker... and I'll be able to use 5th for highway driving??

I dont think its the shockproof you want i think its the MTL

This stuff i believe :thumbsup:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170497354171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

If you do end up chucking another stocker in, try Redline Light Shockproof. IIRC TO4GTR broke a few stock boxes, but then it survived after he switched to the Redline. Of course the tiny sample size means the evidence is very weak, but since most people dont break gearboxes at your power level, it might be worth a shot if youre not using it already. Or maybe PM him to see if he thinks.

What oil did you use in the broken boxes?

ok I can get a OS Giken 3 gear set for $2,600

i think its a fair price... anyone know if any other place sells it cheaper??

also does one have any experience with their close gear ratios?

is it just going to accelerate quicker... and I'll be able to use 5th for highway driving??

Keep the standard 5th. You don't need it reving it's head off on the freeway. I did that with my box.

$2,600. Who is that through?

Drive mine out at texi. The ratio's are longer. 87 km/h first, 138 km/h in second and 190 km/h at 8000 RPM.

To4 Dave started out with a route 6 box, smashed that and went Ppg :)

Damn - must have been someone else then. Maybe BWRGTR.... pretty sure the handle was six uppercase characters. I cant find the thread tho, so....

I dont think its the shockproof you want i think its the MTL

No, in this case I do mean Light Shockproof, not MTL.

Keep the standard 5th. You don't need it reving it's head off on the freeway. I did that with my box.

$2,600. Who is that through?

Drive mine out at texi. The ratio's are longer. 87 km/h first, 138 km/h in second and 190 km/h at 8000 RPM.

its through a guy who knows a guy who gets stuff direct from supplier

yeh 4th/5th will be standard just changing the first 3

Texi is next sunday right? i'll bring my bro's 34 GTR and come for a ride :)

Edited by usmair

im getting the input shaft... but i dont see the need for 5th

You will if you break it.

That said, I know people have broken OS gearboxes as well with 380-400rwkw.

Lots of people strip 5th @ trackdays where you get into 5th simply because it's not meant for busting top speed/max power type stuff.

It's all about mechanical sympathy. If you show some, you won't break stock gearboxes.

Mechanical sympathy is great - and it's free!

I have the stock box, with a pretty short short shifter (10mm from in 1st gear to in 2nd gear), redline lightweight (smurfs blood) - been in the car since i bought it in 2005 and no issues. It even has a solid centre triple plate against it, and a 3L making decent power.

When it blows, it will be the 3 speed kit, with input shaft and the centre plate.

Mechanical sympathy is great - and it's free!

I have the stock box, with a pretty short short shifter (10mm from in 1st gear to in 2nd gear), redline lightweight (smurfs blood) - been in the car since i bought it in 2005 and no issues. It even has a solid centre triple plate against it, and a 3L making decent power.

When it blows, it will be the 3 speed kit, with input shaft and the centre plate.

Limiter dump you nomhow it is ..........

haha Deano mate dont worry, it's copped its fair share of launching. Never off the limiter - i like my oil pump intact, but 7500rpm launches no problem

Bought a spare gearbox for it in 2006 and yeah, it's gathered years of dust cause this one just keeps going! Never launched it on semi's in the dry though, i'm pretty confident that will be the end of it

Whats the point of getting anti lag if i cant enjoy some 7k dumps :D

I wil try to go easy on the changes going forward though

Anyone know a good box/clutch installer in syd? I wanna goto a specialist this time to make sure there are no unexpected BANGS going forward

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...