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Geezus Max, Warpspeed has probably forgotten more then you hope to know. He isn't being funny, just very matter of fact.

Oh my bad, you're right... Not being funny, just sarcastic.

Yes perhaps I dont know everything, but contributing positively to the forum with unbias information should not be a target of rude sarcasm.

Back on topic.. I believe that the Tomei solid lifters are under $400 for a set from nengun. I could be wrong..

If thats the truth, the complete cam upgrade would cost around $800 (US). $400 lifters, $170 cams, $150 gears.

Its hard to find a set of USED cams here for $800, in the states... and if you prefer keeping some low end, gaining a notable amount of mid range and top end, want solid lifters, and want adjustable cam timing with the blingin colored gears... Then this is a great upgrade! Someone let me know if I'm not seeing something obvious that makes this a pointless upgrade = /

Go back and read my post #204

I explained in great technical detail the problems of installing a solid cam in a hydraulic motor, and why it simply is not going to work.

The fact that a great many of you just did not want to know any of this, is unfortunate.

That others were talking only about how cool a really lumpy erratic idle sounded, and probably having wet dreams about that video clip of a vibrating exhaust tip, is absolutely hilarious.

Sarcasm maybe, but personally I enjoy driving my car, I don't sit behind the exhaust tip jerking myself off because of the sounds it makes at idle.

If you don't find all of that extremely funny, you should really take a long hard look at yourselves.

Good luck getting a 26 head to fit on a 20. Not sure about the 25(26 head fitting on a 25 bottom end), but i'd...snip

I was responding to this question :(

what about putting gtr cams into a 25 head?
Go back and read my post #204

I explained in great technical detail the problems of installing a solid cam in a hydraulic motor, and why it simply is not going to work.

The fact that a great many of you just did not want to know any of this, is unfortunate.

That others were talking only about how cool a really lumpy erratic idle sounded, and probably having wet dreams about that video clip of a vibrating exhaust tip, is absolutely hilarious.

Sarcasm maybe, but personally I enjoy driving my car, I don't sit behind the exhaust tip jerking myself off because of the sounds it makes at idle.

If you don't find all of that extremely funny, you should really take a long hard look at yourselves.

Now go back and read my post, and tell me what the last paragraph talks about... Arguing the point of this being a decent upgrade for those on a budget, and are willing to go through the extra work.

I did the cam swap due to lack of solid information, experimented, and then replaced them with the stock cams.. untill I can afford the lifters and gears.

It seems as though you ignored the real points in my last response so you crack a few childish jokes... well we're all learning here, is it really necessary?

  • 2 weeks later...

I just recently picked up a pair of r32 gtr cams and springs cheap so i thought i'd give the cams a go! i'm running a wolf 3d v4+ initial startup i was plagued with drama due to no manifold vacum putting the computer into a higher load band therefore running rich, changed load sensor from MAP detecting to TPS to get it in the correct load band, but still more tuning to go! Also went to just jap and bought a pair of their own cam gears, although not as great as i'd like them to be they should do, good for the price though! i'll set them as sidney kid suggests (I+2/E-4) and see how it goes from there!

By the way once i got the load referencing kinda sorted the although not as cammy as expected at idleit clears to a smooth but definitely deeper growl by around 3400, so if this is where power starts to happen it should match well with the HKS gt25/35r which used to come on boost at around 3800/4000 anyways i'll keep you all posted!

well we're all learning here, is it really necessary?

Apparently nobody here is learning anything at all.

We have another guy just arrived here Turbo65Falcon, he is now going to try this too. And they just keep on coming.

I am not here to put you guys down, just trying to save people a hell of a lot of work and effort for nothing, but nobody listens. Worse than that, people object when I try to help. So I am not going to bother anymore.

Has anyone actually got a before / after of an RB20DET running aftermarket RB20DET cams? Is there actually any proof that cams do help the bottom/mid or jsut help top end?

Based on results ppl may achieve with aftermarket gear...since the aftermarket gear probably doenst do what you want...i cant see the compromised GTR cams doing it either.

Yeah I hear ya roy. Having the GTSR I am planning to keep an RB20 in it no matter what.

Where I am at now with over 250rwkw everyone keeps telling me that I need cams next but like you said I have not seen any data from RB20s running aftermarket cams that can show a low end power hike.

I am quite happy with the top end grunt it has now and would love to move the band left a little bit and pull a few psi out but have not seen anyone prove its possible.

i baught some apexi rb20 cams from spool imports and fitted them to my rb20det the cams i got ened up being for a rb26 they were 264 9.0-9.5mm lift once fitted they held the valves open and the car didnt start at all so i therfore had to send them back ..

Got it started with a trial setting of +4deg Intake and -3deg Exhaust and did a little rough tuning, car now idles quite nice with only a slight lope on idle but once given a bit of throttle clears almost instantly well before 3400 as previous (prob closer to 2000 now) might put the wheels back on the car and take it for a run and see how it goes. As for all the people out there who belive this won't work, i am only doing this as it does not really cost me as i do all the work and there have been people out there who (lie?????) reckon it worked, so for my own curiosity i'm giving it my best go!! And although i should have dyno'd it before, i plan to get a dyno run in (providing it feels better or worthwile) and i will make sure i put up the results so that everyone can learn from my mistake / good fortune too!!!!

  • 5 months later...

I wish I read the whole thread before I tried the swap. I have no idea how some have got this working correctly.

Im having the same problems as a few other people above. Shit idle, f**k all power until 4000rpm even above that its not as good as before.

Are the GTR lifters the same diameter as RB20 hydraulic lifters?

  • 3 years later...
while second hand cams will cost next to nothing, you may get a shock when you find out the total cost (parts and labour) to convert the hydraulic lash adjusters to solid. in fact, a 2nd-hand GT-R head will probably be a cheaper option.

Sounds like for the cost of doing a solid lifter conversion and messing around with cam gears you are better off just spending $800 on cams designed to be used with hydraulic lifters with the right angles?

Surely this would be easier and no more expensive in the long run.

  • 2 weeks later...

Just getting mixed messages here on this subject....basically after reading all this RB26 cams into RB20 = FAIL

unless the car is a drag machine lol

I seriously thought it would of worked.... well it does apparently but not very drivable :)

Time and money better spent on Tomei or HKS cams that are proven to actually work

But hey, where is the fun in that ay?

Im gonna say congrats to the peeps that had a crack at it, experimentation is half the fun :)

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