Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nasty crash and good to see the guy was ok afterwards.

I have had my front suspension break after coming over the bridge at Oran park before, no rolling off the road but i reckon if it happened at speed on the straight i would be in the same boat and just a passenger.These were tein coil overs so it can really happen in any car either kit or something you buy from a major manufacturer.

I also was driving a car "somewhere" where we had been doing top speed runs in a 350kw light weight car and as i slow down and take a corner, the rear toe arm snaps and i come to a tire smoking spinning stop.

Just be careful to use quality parts and check over things regularly especially if you take it to the track often. Don't give up on your dream as i reckon building a kit car would be awesome :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Ultima is genuinely on my one day list of things. I have the bucket R32 fun club car. Now have the Sierra Cosworth to break down on me and leave me stranded in places. Now I just need a big house/garage to move on to one more project before the Ultima. That is getting a gig in Europe and bringing back the uber personal import :)

Likewise a bucket list item for me too. The recent engineering rule changes in NSW may put an end to that though which will be a shame.

Nothing too wild, just the basic kit, silver gel coat, black interior, AP brakes, 6.2L Chev engine around 300rwkw will be plenty

Always loved this pic speaking of Ultima's;

672%20Ultima%20GTR.jpg

If you look around you might be able to pick up someone else's 1/2 finished Caterham project. You'd be surprised how many people start projects like these and just leave them un-finished in a shed. You can pick them up cheap once they have been sitting a few years.

That Corvette is pretty cool. I love Vettes, but know them well enough to know many are garbage. From memory the 84 Vette has 185hp :( And being the first of C4s they are pretty rubbish. 89 - 94 is what I would be after.

But the biggest problem is housing prices in Aus, I cant afford a house for the toys :) Hence the plan to get to Europe with work, get the dream car. Import dream car and then when in 4-5 years when I am around 40 build a Caterham with S2000 running gear or Ultima, depending on cash, and what my 22yr old Russian bride prefers :)

yer, the emission regulations really hurt those Corvette , most people just take them off and be dune with them.

most cops have never seen a Corvette so it's not like a skyline.

If anybody is after a pretty well sorted Clubman, check this out;

Clubman

A friend is selling it. Makes 130rwk, weighs 550kg, does easy 1:08's at Wakefield and will go quicker.

Only reason for selling is that he bought a brand new one.... a MNR with a 'turbocharged' Hyabusa engine, dry sump, sequential box, digital dash etc = 220rwk and 500kg!!!

BTW if you contact me first, we can definitely do something about the price to make it very attractive...

Edited by SRS13

Has anyone looked at the STOHR vehicles? www.apracing.net.au

They look impressive for a track only option.

Anyone got an idea around cost? I see the closed wheel version also 'for lease' on my105...

Stohr's are quick, Adam Proctor won the Sports Racer series in his this year, however he had all of the best gear on his car (it won the DSR championship in the USA the previous year) and it had a modified motor when the Speads and the West's ran stock motors.

I have heard from people who run them and race against them in the States that they are somewhat more fragile than the West's and the Speads, as everything on the car has been reduced to the minimum size needed, and there are a number of parts like rod ends that are considered throw away items in the car.

  • 2 weeks later...

To be honest if you wished to walk the path of making a kit car, you couldn't get a batter start then Caterham (there are plenty of companies within australia that sell very nice replica kits for much cheaper). I've used to work for a mob that built them for the road and track and they are just awsome, they are very simple to put together with many people out there who will be more then willing to lend a hand, especially if you start getting some track time.

There are a few reasons why you should build a caterham well before trying to build something more crazy like an ultima/cobra/gt40, this is because it's relatively cheap to throw together (so if you give up like many others you haven't lost much), it will give you a very good understanding of what it takes to build a truely balanced vehicle, and it may very well be so much fun that you won't even want to move to something more expensive.

You have a large amount of engines to choose from depending on what you want, be it a nice NA like a 4AGE (a very common choice), or maybe something turbocharged like a SR20, or supercharged like a 4AGZE, or just go all crazy like and throw a Rotary in there. Actually there isn't many things you cant change on this car depending on what you want....

All in all i highly suggest you go for the caterham, then sell if off if you want more and then move onto your next project.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...