Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does running nitrogen make much difference?? Bit off topic now but this intrigued me.

I think so, but it could be a placebo effect. They just tend to feel better IMO and nitrogen dosent expand anywhere near what air does so pressures stay pretty consistent on a track day.

Omg Dave you can be fussy, i've seen it before and it looks fine..lol

Either way that's a reasonable price..Will put on top of my want list :thumbsup:

Nah not fussy, just a mild case of OCD.........I mean attention to detail lol

I imagine that would only be possible if boost was being controlled by the Haltech? With boost being controlled separately by the HKS EVC, it's not going to do it automatically.

This^^^

Sell the hks evc and get a simple mac valve. Setup the boost control over ethanol percentage so can leave it on high boost and the haltech will lower the boost accordingly.

Same for low boost.

Will also stop ur boost dropping off.

One of the only boost controllers i dislike is the hkc evc's.

The KU36's have a treadwear of 180, the RSR's are 140. So not a huge difference. I know my KU36's lasted about 1 track day and maybe 8000km's, so they don't last either.

It's not just the treadwear indicator that you need to worry about in terms of grip. Sidewall also plays a massive part, hence the AD08s are as good as they are.

I had RSR's, they'd done 3-4 track days before i sold them (and rims) to a mate, with a good 3,000kms on the street. Hardly any tread missing at all...

Don't KU36s last longer than RSR though? I know RSR is a more grippy tyre but they really don't last.

As i said RSR's last fine.

I got 10,000kms out of a 2nd hand set of AD08s and did a LOT of hill runs. Ontop of that did maybe 3-4 skidpan/motorkhana days, 4WD donuts on 3 occasions, 100+ launches - you name it I did it.

All of this in the HMAS GTR which has many more KGs than lighter RWD brothers and you'd think would chew tyres even faster.

End of the day if you are killing a set of tyres in 10 laps on a single circuit day, you need to learn how to drive and not lock up under brakes. You should get 6-10 track days out of a set + some road KM's without any drama in the world.

Have heard a few complaints about 36s glad I didn't buy them ..31s seem to be a better tyre for the money by all accounts..

Nittos just over 400$ for 255/17s pretty good value and look more like a track tyre than street..whT are they like in the wet ?

Will either get these or splurge on the yokos :thumbsup:

For $400 in 17" - you are well into AD08 territory... They are miles better than a KU36 and a RSR - provided you have the suspension/grip to complement them and make them work for you as it's not just tyres that effect grip.

Even stone cold i could tell the difference when i had AD08s on or RSRs ;)

They also work better at different pressures. I was down to around 30-32psi on AD08 for them to be at thier fastest. The car felt like it was quite loose (compared to 32-34psi i was using earlier), but the lap times were better (track battle @ thunderdome) so ye... I'd been pretty consistent over 2 days and only play with pressures in the last 2 sessions and then noticed the times dropping.

Care to expand on this mate? You get some people wanting them to be the mother of their children and others hating them.

They work well but there are little niggly things when first setting them up that can be a pain in the butt.

I think the main reason i dislike 1 was a poor wastegate setup. Car is coming back for a external gate to remove the small tomei internal.

It's not just the treadwear indicator that you need to worry about in terms of grip. Sidewall also plays a massive part, hence the AD08s are as good as they are.

I had RSR's, they'd done 3-4 track days before i sold them (and rims) to a mate, with a good 3,000kms on the street. Hardly any tread missing at all...

As i said RSR's last fine.

I got 10,000kms out of a 2nd hand set of AD08s and did a LOT of hill runs. Ontop of that did maybe 3-4 skidpan/motorkhana days, 4WD donuts on 3 occasions, 100+ launches - you name it I did it.

All of this in the HMAS GTR which has many more KGs than lighter RWD brothers and you'd think would chew tyres even faster.

End of the day if you are killing a set of tyres in 10 laps on a single circuit day, you need to learn how to drive and not lock up under brakes. You should get 6-10 track days out of a set + some road KM's without any drama in the world.

For $400 in 17" - you are well into AD08 territory... They are miles better than a KU36 and a RSR - provided you have the suspension/grip to complement them and make them work for you as it's not just tyres that effect grip.

Even stone cold i could tell the difference when i had AD08s on or RSRs ;)

They also work better at different pressures. I was down to around 30-32psi on AD08 for them to be at thier fastest. The car felt like it was quite loose (compared to 32-34psi i was using earlier), but the lap times were better (track battle @ thunderdome) so ye... I'd been pretty consistent over 2 days and only play with pressures in the last 2 sessions and then noticed the times dropping.

I agree AD08's are amazing tyres, they do however get very slippery once they start getting overheated when pushed fairly hard, which is where a real r-comp would be much better. But for half the price you would never complain

Edited by SimonR32

End of the day if you are killing a set of tyres in 10 laps on a single circuit day, you need to learn how to drive and not lock up under brakes. You should get 6-10 track days out of a set + some road KM's without any drama in the world.

This is me in a nutshell :blush:

On that last track day I did with those tyres I was really experimenting though, trying to see how late I could brake, how hard I could accelerate, how much speed I could carry through the corners, etc. As a result I lost it a number of times. Was one hell of a day though :D

I agree AD08's are amazing tyres, they do however get very slippery once they start getting overheated when pushed fairly hard, which is where a real r-comp would be much better. But for half the price you would never complain

Totally agree the R-Comp would still be miles better but they let me compete in street class in a few events and I was still faster than EVO's on R-comps :)

I never got them to a slippery point - I mean the car was getting skaty, but it was doing that from the first lap. Great tyre - highly recommend springing the extra

Im not sure how much tyre choice has to do with it.

i remember speaking to a few great minds about that sort of thing who gave me great insight. from memory, manufacturers like porsche use wider tyres to get the same levels of grip with a better wear ratio. the concept behind that is in the weight of the car over the area of tyre.

the smaller the tyre is the more force it will have per unit of area. so a skinny tyre will have more pressure applied per square inch than a wider tyre.

i also read that wider tyres can give the illusion of more grip by needing more energy to turn and make lose grip. generally the skinnier tyres and wheels were seen as more efficient which is why in the early days of F1 they would run tiny tyres.

nowadays we are always pushing the boundaries with speed and need wider stuff to distrubute the wear and need less changes in a single race.

annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnddddd traction @ 300kw discussion BEGIN:

Well i went from spinning my 255 nankangs in 1st 2nd and 3rd gears with a kaaz 2 way until today when i threw on a set of nitto invos it only spins a little bit in 1st and 2nd now but these tyres are almost silent whilst breaking traction CRAZY only drove them bout 15km home and im VERY impressed so far :yes:

Going for a drive in the hills tomorrow to see how they are in the twisties :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...