Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what did you do to them excatly? id love some pics hahaha the setup looks the same as a r33 one thats why were baffled at the problem

Drilled the plastic factory 90 out and replaced with a speedflow fitting... Have pics but no idea where, found it for another 34 owner the other day but i think it was on FB

I have had no issues maxing an e85 Walbro without drilling or modifying the fuel tank at all.

Well that is a good sign... But i doubt the filter is a restriction as i run the paper type and have no issues!

Hey guys,

This is a neat little club going on here and I've decided I would like to join it!

Need a little advise before I get there though. Obviously number 1 issue for most people is money, so I have 15K to achieve my 300kw dream (including price of car)

I've found an r32 with S1 Rb25 conversion with following mods already on it

Engine:

HKS EVC 3

Nistune ECU

Front Mount I/C with hard piping kit
3" Turbo back exhaust, high flow cat
Walbro 255lph in tank fuel pump

Gearbox:

RB25DET Gearbox
Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch
Custom Tailshaft to suit new gearbox
Standard Differential

Suspension / Handling:
BC BR Coilovers
Cusco Fixed Upper Camber Arms -3 deg
Hardrace adjustable Rear camber arms
Hardrace adjustable Rear traction rods
Rear Adjustable toe arms with Lock bar
Front R34 GTR disk brake upgrade

Price of car is gonna set me back (9-10K based on negotiations and is also the reason for this exercise to see if buying the car is worth it for my goals)

Based on what the car has I think it covers all the odds and ends that aren't directly related to power but is needed anyway, so the rest of my budget can go on go fast bits

With 5/6K left my shopping list to get me to 300kw is:

GT3076r low mount kit - $3200 (could go GTX instead for $200 more...undecided)

Xspurt 1000cc injectors - $775 (same price as 750's, figure why not)

Z32 AFM - $150 - $200

Turbo Smart FPR 800 - $270

Tuning = $1000 (guessing)

Total = $5500

I don't think any of that is over complicated to install myself but have obviously budgeted for professional tuning.

Now...is there any holes in my plan, anything that will have my hopes and dreams come crashing down on me? I have read a good chunk of this thread and based on other results I don't think I would be far off.

I have not purchased or made a final decision on this particular car, so if this combo will not work I will explore other options, so suggestions are welcome

I have been through the rb25 turbo thread and this one so I know there is plenty of info out there, i'm not trying to get someone to do the work for me, but it would be nice to get an outside opinion on my plans to either set my mind a bit more at ease or prevent me from making a mistake.

Thanks!

I wouldn't know... I fell short of the 400 mark by 9 little bastard wasps :P

Why the stainless fuel filter? I run paper filters and they are not a restriction is setup correctly?

Closer than me, sprung an oil leak last dyno day, stopped at 365 due to starting to make too much of a mess :whistling:

Might have to go again, still on 98e10 but should be able to wind some more out of it :D

Edited by WMDC35

Well that is a good sign... But i doubt the filter is a restriction as i run the paper type and have no issues!

Perhaps the brand or part number was different, but both times I have seen it on 34's the filter was an issue. Probably just blocked with gunk, but they were changed recently...

At least the tank setup is good for 430 or more kw in the 33 and 34.

I have seen a couple max out, base pressure and boost pressure were pretty close though I think. 40 psi base with 30 psi boost. You could get a bit more out of them by dropping the base pressure a little.

You should see at least 400kw, these maxed at 430 and 450.

I have not purchased or made a final decision on this particular car, so if this combo will not work I will explore other options, so suggestions are welcome

I have been through the rb25 turbo thread and this one so I know there is plenty of info out there, i'm not trying to get someone to do the work for me, but it would be nice to get an outside opinion on my plans to either set my mind a bit more at ease or prevent me from making a mistake.

Thanks!

Just buy a car with 300rwkw already, if you do buy this car buy a $900 highflow instead, will save you getting defected (you will), and when you are $2k short due to a bunch of things breaking that you didn't expect you will be able to afford them. Just stuff like tyres, random broken stuff, trust me you will get caught out.

Wise words.

Remember 300rwkw is useless without good Diff/clutch/tyres

300rwkw can be quite a handful if the car isn't set up properly.

Trouble is that everyone can have 300 pretty easily on a relatively stock car

Or buy an awd base to begin with if you want traction. ;)

:yes: Once i got my suspension and diff all sorted the car was a lot more fun to drive! And a lot quicker too!

FYP. :P

:laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For fuelling the Haltechs have O2WB fuel controllers. Very useful for helping tuning VE and correcting for *small* mistakes. Of course if your injector/cam/trigger/sensor data is just wrong (or for a GTT which is not a GT) then you will get impossible reactions to things. I am sure you know this already but the reason people don't typically put haltechs (or any Aftermarket ECU) on GT's is because there's practically no real gains to be had - So this knowledge won't be commonplace.
    • Can someone tell me if the cracks seen in the rear sway bar bushings in these photo's is unacceptable from a roadworthy point of view?  
    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
×
×
  • Create New...