Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey can I join the club?

Just upgraded to Deatschwerks 950cc injectors and retuned for E85

Very happy with the results!

From 274rwkw (98) to 314rwkw (E85) with a massive increase in mid-range power

Pushing 500HP and very responsive - full boost by 3250rpm

post-52301-0-98109800-1404807442_thumb.jpg

This is an overlay of the E85 and 98PULP dyno results on exactly the same set up (100% unopened) apart from the injectors & tune.

First time posting and I'm not sure If this is the best place to post..

I've got a RB25de neo 6 R34

100 000kmspost-135582-14054799325913_thumb.jpg

With a

AIResearch T60 T04E turbo

Externally gated on a slide industries manifold

700cc Bosch injectors

Apexi power FC

Bosch 044

Apexi FMIC

3inch stainless turbo back exhaust

Cometic head gasket

Arp studs

FFP

How much would I expect to see out of it?

How much boost could I push?

Could I run 300kw with that setup as a daily?

  • 2 weeks later...

rb25 neo

t67 10cm

880cc sards

sard reg

greddy rail

tomei type b

greddy intake

npc cushioned clutch

oil accumulator

oil cooler

3" straight trough

stock head gasket

98 bp

340 @17 psi graph in dyno thread

Unopened rb25 neo

Holset hx35 turbo

Chinese manifold

Custom intake manifold

Denso -850cc injectors

Turbonetics 44mm gate

3 inch exhaust

Spitfire coils

Sard fpr

Both 044 an 040

Z32 afm

Power fc

Car makes 304kw atw on 16 pound an 279Kw atw on only 12 pound

post-119725-0-64273200-1407021544_thumb.jpg

  • 8 months later...

1998 Nissan Skyline R33 Gts2.5t


40th Anniversary Edition.


Mechanical Nismo Selective 1.5 L.S.D. diff


Nismo G Max II clutch


Bilstein shocks with King springs


Whiteline adjustable swaybars front and rear


Whiteline adjustable nolethene bushes for camber/castor/toe at all four wheels


HKS triple layer dry pod filter


Z32 Mass Air Flow Meter


Sard adjustable fuel pressure regulator


555 Nismo injectors


Splitfire coils


Blitz 700x600x70 fmic (anodised blue)


HKS IV electronic vacuum controller (boost controller)


Blitz turbo timer


Trust alloy oil cooler with stainless steel braided lines


Apexi alloy radiator


Cusco high pressure radiator cap


D1 oil catch can


Master cylinder brake brace stop bracket


Project mU front discs [brakes]


Braided stainless steel brake hoses [full kit]


90mm exhaust with HKS Hiper 120mm s/s muffler


Cusco front tower strut bar


Snow Performance Stage 3 Boost Cooler water/meth injection kit


Garrett GT3076 WG turbo with 100mm port shrouded comp cover


HKS 40mm external wastegate [18psi spring rate]


HKS cast low mount manifold extrude honed and flowed


Tomei adjustable exhaust cam pulley


Tomei Poncams 256 degrees/8.5mm lift


Apexi Power Full Computer with Hand Controller



Making 302, so just snuck in, chart is in Dyno thread.


Apologies for the crappy format, I cut and pasted from a word file and CBF fixing it.

oh hai... forgot I made it into this club a while ago...

343kW on 1.65bar of boost (Mainline Dyno) on E85

Stock Motor, Stock Cams, Stock Head, Stock Manifold (Intake & Exhaust)

Hypergear SS2 (internal gate welded shut & 3" v-band exhaust)

Scotty Custom 45mm External Gate Mod on Turbo Housing

Turbosmart 45mm Hypergate External Wastegate

875cc Siemen DEKA IV Top Feed Injectors

Sard (fake I think) Fuel Pressure Regulator

Walbro 450L Fuel Pump

Splitfire Coilpacks

Hybrid FMIC

Plazmaman Swept Back Cooler Piping

Typical 3" Exhaust System (1x Resonator, 1x Mid Muffler, 1x Fujitsubo Rear Oval Muffler) & Screamer Pipe :)

Adaptronic ECU, self tuned

  • 3 weeks later...

Look at where the power curve is going. Straight over 400rwhp. Dyno cuts out. They are getting me back for a power run to have a full graph. This will give you an idea.

post-96233-0-20807300-1431143693_thumb.jpg

Look at where the power curve is going. Straight over 400rwhp. Dyno cuts out. They are getting me back for a power run to have a full graph. This will give you an idea.

HAHA that predictor is awesome, it's making on average a few hp more up to when the "dyno cuts out" but somehow it's going to gain 30hp? 405rwhp would be more on the money

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...