Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hows it going everyone! I have joined here because I am the new owner of a 1994 R32 GTR Skyline here in the U.S. We don't have much if any support over here for Skylines anymore, so I have been gathering all my info and knowledge mainly from these forums, great use so far!

My main question right now is, how strong are these front and rear c.v axles? I have pulled the motor the other night, and I will be doing a full rebuild built for lot's of boost, are axles breaking a problem for GTR's? I'm looking for 700hp on 110 octane.

Here is a little shot of lasts nights work,

33656327648059242591381.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

42309920666690276201510.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

The whole drivetrain is pretty bloody good from the factory - only the most serious drag cars break anything except gearboxes.

But to be honest a genuine 700hp would put you in the "serious drag car" category so no guarantees

My main question right now is, how strong are these front and rear c.v axles? I have pulled the motor the other night, and I will be doing a full rebuild built for lot's of boost, are axles breaking a problem for GTR's? I'm looking for 700hp on 110 octane.

At the motor or at the wheels?

Well all the bushings are completely fubarred, the rear end clunks like no other lol. The engine had a severely blown headgasket. Was missing like 4 lower tranny bolts. Loose bolts and crappy just backyard style stuff done everywhere. Clutch slave wasn't bled. The body is flawlessly smooth though thumbsup.gif and paints decent.

I'm not too worried about it though, I will be putting my hands on pretty much every inch of this car. I really wanna use the r32 diffs with the v161 so I'm gunna flush all fluids and cross fingers, I have R34 diffs as spares.

I already have Energy Suspension Poly Euro Bushings to go all around the car. I have the V161 already too. Today I just ordered 87mm CP pistons and Manley connecting rods. Cosworth main/rod bearings with .001 extra clearance. ARP headstuds. I don't have main studs yet but will soon. I have a cometic gasket kit. I also ordered my PT6766h turbo today!banana.gif I'll be ordering cams and valve springs soon. I'm going to need a new water pump, and I'll also be using the Reimax oil pump, Greddy pan extension, 2-3qt Accusump system, and a bunch of other stuff. Once I get a few more things acquired I will be starting a build thread.

  • 4 weeks later...

OK so here is a little teaser of what is going down before I start my build thread. ALL these parts are IN HAND ready to go.

Getrag V161 trannydriveshaft shop 1000hp front cv axlescusco front differentialdriveshaft shop rear axle bar upgradecusco rear differentialmanley rods, cp pistons, cosworth main and rod bearings, custom CNC'd and port matched head, PNT intake manifold, Image Dynamics 1000cc injectors, AEM v2 engine manangement with boost solenoid, IAT, and MAP and wideband, Supertech 1mm over valves, dual springs, JUN cams, Precision 6766 twin scroll with H 3in outlet compressor cover, xs power manifold, Okada Plasma Direct iginition coils, Reimax oil pump, greddy pulleys, HKS cam gears, Accusump 2qt with electric solenoidOgura triple plate metallic clutch

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

UPDATE!! Hey guys, no pics yet but only because the car isn't 100 percent done but it's somewhat close!

HERE IS MY ISSUE! Please drag racers chime in...

How many drag guys are exploding rear diffs? My fabricator wants me to do a Ford 8.8 IRS setup in my Skyline because I am trying to HOOK all 1000whp on slicks. He doesn't think the rear diff will hold up. So far I have DSS 1000hp axles, and an OS giken LSD back there...

I don't want to waste the money I spent on the DSS axles...but I also don't want to be replacing rear diffs all the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...