Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Test fitted some wheels.

F - 9 +30, 255

R - 10 +38, 295

With about 2.5 deg camber on the rear it was slightly pokey, and flush with 2 deg camber on the front.

Decided to go with,

F - 9 +35

R - 9.5 +38

RPF1s on their way from japan, hope this helps anyone looking to go big.

10588654_814795625218233_842044625_n1_zp

10585598_814803338550795_616279295_n_zps

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I put on something similar Koya Cr Tek 18 x 8.5 +32 offset all round with Federal 595 235x 40x 18

Car is GTT r34.

Had the original wheela on it before handles excellent. No guard rolling.

  • 2 months later...

I want 18x9.5 inch all round, rears im fine with +38 but for the fronts its hard to find out exactly what offset i would need.

I would prefer no gaurd roll back can do if scraping.

Would +35 front be ok?

9.5 + 35 probably wont clear the inner suspension on the front.

You would probably need to go for a much lower offset if you want 9.5 on the front.

I went 18x9.5 +22, Volk Racing TE37SL's with 245/35/18 tyres.

Guards are rolled just to be safe and car is lowered w Coilovers.

Clears the plastic lining in the front with no rubbing at all.

Slightest poke on the front but hardly noticeable.

IMG_87292222_zpsc5b30122.jpg

10834093_10153371011077571_1859539448_n_

10743558_10153312105092571_69778459_n_zp

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...