Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could have been cheaper if you made a few of those gearbox parts, especially the bell housing. I would have bought one but I guess you would have needed the stock one to hack up?

Cable throttle?

What are you doing about engine management?

Scotty, what was your issue with tuning the cams? Wouldn't work, or wouldn't work with Emanage/Vmanage/etc? Would you get around this by running a PS2000 or something else?

Hey dcdc you should start a thread about your car and the mods complete with pics, no one is going to think you're a wanker considering the amount of work it appears you have done already.

Hi dcdc.

Richzx is right. We would love to see a thread about your plans for the car, what you have achieved so far, and fabrication. We are a Community here that love the Stagea. Doesn't matter what form it takes, we love them all. You have no doubt garnered info from here to make your plans, and we have tried to help you along the way. The community is only as strong as its members. I think this site, along with another Stagea site, is the premier place for info over the whole net. I'm sure the Russians have something similar, but put you hand up if you speak Russian.....

I personally Doff my Hat to you. I think its a crazy insane great project. If its a spectacular failure, which none of us hope it is, then so be it- you tried, and thats what counts. Plenty of people spin loads of shit on the site; but pics, plans and set backs all make for great reading along the way (just have a look at some of the threads in the builds section). None of us will judge you for that. We all change our minds about our cars very regularly! I think you have taken some of us by surprise about the magnitude of your build.

Hope to see a build thread and some more pics and plans soon.

thumbsup.gif

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...

I Just have to dig up this 'old' thread (well nearly 1 year old), but I'm keen on seeing some progress and/or some initial photos of progress up to the above photo of fitting the R34 box.

How easy is the R34 GTR box to fit upto a VQ series motor. Aside from the cut and shut bell housing?

Without having one in front of me, can't you use the 6 speed from the V35/350Z and attach the transfer case to it for less (or perhaps more?) fabrication but AWD action?

It sounds like Aftermarket Engine Management on these cars is a pain in the ar$e. There was mention about the ECU controlling the dash/heater/elec windows/abs/etc. via the ECU CAN system. I'm pretty sure MoTeC make a CAN based system for control. Could this be adapted to replace the Nissan ECU? It's bloody expensive (I think $2k just for the module and then there is the wiring costs on top of that)

Except the M35 CAN system in an orphan too.

RWD, go the z33 box, but for awd, the r33 gtr box is now the go. A company in the US has made a gearbox adapter for VQ to RB box.

A Link G4 will run the show with either the auto or manual, just that no-one has done it yet.

  • 8 months later...

What you see in the picture is a 34 getrag shifter with custom shift linkage and a modified transmission tunnel. And a clutch pedal, but you saw that one. tongue.gif

Hey someone else had the common sense to put a manual in there NM35.... A friend told me about a a NM35 at a workshop on Newmarket rd with a R34 6 speed and a VQ stroker.... Would that be yours?????

There's a huge amount of money invested in that build; the amount of fabrication is enormous.

Do some calcs at $120-$160ph for their kind of pricing.

I still don't quite see how they were planning on fitting a cooling system in with the size of the turbo in that engine bay.

There's a huge amount of money invested in that build; the amount of fabrication is enormous.

Do some calcs at $120-$160ph for their kind of pricing.

I still don't quite see how they were planning on fitting a cooling system in with the size of the turbo in that engine bay.

Boot mounted radiator. All the cool off roaders are doing it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...