Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 months later...
  • Replies 245
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Super taxi's are super shit. Put whatever badge you like on it underneath its still the same damn car.

Close racing my arse, close procession of ugly looking 4 door hacks is more like it. I've seen more overtaking in wheelchairs down the hall at donerootin nursing home.

Whoever decided that an uglyarse 4 door family stomper would make a good looking race car should put the crack pipe down. In comparison GT1 cars look freakin porn.

Cochrane and his puppet show can suck my large male chicken.

Couldn't have said it better!!

To say the cars are the same underneath is a false accusation.

Has anyone actually seen the underside of several current generation supercars from various camps?

They do share the same formula, wishbone suspension, live axle rear ends etc but the cars are worlds apart in terms of geometry, component design etc.

The new COTF should provide an equal build quality,some of the cars you see on TV currently have a build quality on par with some of the average drifters doing the rounds. I'm not exaggerating either some of them are seriously terrible.

to be hoenst i'm not sure if the COTF will work out or not. they tried the same thing in NASCAR a few years back with the redesigned body e.t.c, and have since moved back to the old body style and regulations as far as i am aware. i dont follow NASCAR as much as i used to but the race last weekend at richmond were using the old style cars

Edited by liger

I suspect the NZ Supertourers point the way things are going. The cars are identical apart from some body panels and badges - control chassis, wheels and tyres, 7L chevvy engine, control sequential gearbox, Link computers etc which doesn't stop the publicity department from urging people to support the "Holdens" or "Fords"! and they are saying - look out for the "Nissans"!

The engines - on the positive side they are dry sumped - on the down side they only produce 575 hp - less than some RB30s!

http://www.v8st.co.n.../technical.html

Yeah lets compare exotic european brand sports cars to aussie made family cars, great work!

Nah lets not.Lets just compare aussie made family cars to euro made family cars like bimmers, mercs, audis, vw's etc. Thy make touring racers of them too.

Great work indeed :rolleyes:

Yesterday's quali Race 2 yesterday delivered the goods. Edge of the seat for the 20 odd laps.

Todays 500 was a bit boring overall :/

have to agree with the quali race, best of seen in V8's for years

I watched some of the race because nothing else was on, but didn't really have a problem walking away from it.

It's hard to watch after watching Formula 1 for so long. I guess it helps when you have a team/driver you really want to win

Nah lets not.Lets just compare aussie made family cars to euro made family cars like bimmers, mercs, audis, vw's etc. Thy make touring racers of them too.

Great work indeed :rolleyes:

You said GT1 cars.......looking at the GT1 grid (which is near extinct and likely won't even exist next year) we have:

Aston Martin DBRS9

Audi R8 LMS Ultra

BMW E89 Z4

Ferrari 458 Italia GT3

Ford GT

Lamborghini Gallardo LP600

McLaren GT MP4-12C GT3

Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG GT3

Porsche 911 GT3 R

......all of which are 2 door sports cars and you are comparing them to Ford and Holden 4 door family cars worth about $40k in the road going version.

have to agree with the quali race, best of seen in V8's for years

I watched some of the race because nothing else was on, but didn't really have a problem walking away from it.

It's hard to watch after watching Formula 1 for so long. I guess it helps when you have a team/driver you really want to win

is that because it had too much over taking and close racing compared to a F1 race? i like F1, but it's pretty boring compared to tin top racing (although this year has been much better than pervious years). most of the overtaking happens in the pits and the cars don't get close to each other. it's more a game of chess with cars than a race.

I actually watched most of the 500 start/finish. Got up to make food and do some emails but could still have the TV in earshot should something interesting happening.

Lots did happen over the course of the race, was some good moments, but like all enduro there was a good slabs of sections where there was no action and hence doing other things :D

Bring on Bathurst. Always a good enduro to watch, especially pit stops given brakes are being changed and other fun things.

I do like the CH7 commentary too, getting in and among the teams in real time with interviews constantly for updates is really interesting and some good characters in the paddock as always.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...