Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just reporting back

295 hand cock z221 c70

I bought these used from a super lap competitor in 2012

4 super sprints later and still have a day left in them

Consistent so far will report back once I am through to the belts

Ok thanks, I'll stay away.

I checked out the Z221 and it's only the soft compound available, some stages are 30km long so I think they will be too soft.

Last time I'll spam this thread tonight...

Has anyone used RE11s? A set of these has come up for sale in my budget, 235/45r17 and 2013 production.

I can't find any info online regarding compounds or treadwear, the Bridgestone website doesn't say much at all.

Bridgestone-Potenza-Motorsport-RE11S.png

  • 2 weeks later...

Last time I'll spam this thread tonight...

Has anyone used RE11s? A set of these has come up for sale in my budget, 235/45r17 and 2013 production.

I can't find any info online regarding compounds or treadwear, the Bridgestone website doesn't say much at all.

Bridgestone-Potenza-Motorsport-RE11S.png

These were the replacements for the RE55S

If they're no good for you, let me know where you can get them cheap and I'll take them!

  • 1 month later...

I was very impressed with these Z221's yesterday. 1.5sec faster than the Nitto NT01s I had before! I did fit a FMIC as well since last time, but can't imagine that being worth much time. It gained 1.5psi with the intercooler, and does go a little better by seat of the pants. But the tyres are damn good!

c'mon Harry throw people a few more comments about the Z221 and how they performed at the QSS State Championships. Ambients closer to summertime and a car broadly similar to R chassis on a track layout with variety of corners/speeds/loads.

I love them! Heaps of grip and the Z221 C70 compound is wearing well. After Lakeside and a hillclimb they still had the Hankook written on the outer tread block surface. That's gone now after the two day supersprint at Morgan Park, but the wear isn't bad at all. This is on a 1530kg Soarer (without driver) and temps in the low 30s. The tyres don't even feel like going off after the 3 laps we were running.

Let's face it, they must be pretty good to get an auto Soarer to 0.9sec off the class winner (also on Z221 C70 'Soft') and 6th in class from 35 cars, including 11 EVOs and STIs.

I just wish I bought wider ones lol When the car can easily take 265s on the front and 295s rear, you're giving away a decent chunk of time by running 235s all round... Maybe next time...

Here's a couple of laps - sorry about the wind noise, it was too hot to have the windows up.

  • Like 1

I love them! Heaps of grip and the Z221 C70 compound is wearing well. After Lakeside and a hillclimb they still had the Hankook written on the outer tread block surface. That's gone now after the two day supersprint at Morgan Park, but the wear isn't bad at all. This is on a 1530kg Soarer (without driver) and temps in the low 30s. The tyres don't even feel like going off after the 3 laps we were running.

Let's face it, they must be pretty good to get an auto Soarer to 0.9sec off the class winner (also on Z221 C70 'Soft') and 6th in class from 35 cars, including 11 EVOs and STIs.

I just wish I bought wider ones lol When the car can easily take 265s on the front and 295s rear, you're giving away a decent chunk of time by running 235s all round... Maybe next time...

Here's a couple of laps - sorry about the wind noise, it was too hot to have the windows up.

Cheers for awesome info, I am considering this tyre in 17" for my R34 GTT sedan.

Hey if it's not too much trouble could you please measure the actual tyre width when mounted (somewhere off the ground)?

I am trying to gauge how close to the specced 235mm they actually are (my current Eagle F1's are 235's and measure 231mm).

Thanks heaps!

my 235/40R18 are more like 240mm, and the sidewalls sit totally straight on an 8.5" rim. I've got them on 9.5s on the back with a slight stretch.

Brilliant thanks mate!

I was hoping to go 235's but might have to stick with 225's due to the width as I'm running 20mm spacers on the car.

  • 4 weeks later...

Cross posting from the tyre thread since the semis are relevant here too. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72923-tyres-you-used-and-how-u-would-rate-them/page-74

Called around a lot yesterday, here's some fresh Melbourne prices (hopefully I scribbled them down right) using the 225/45R17 size as a reference:
Semis:
  • Dunlop DZ03G $640
  • Hankook Z221 (C50) $463
  • Yokohama Advan A050 $462
  • Bridgestone Potenza RE11S $450
  • Toyo Proxes R888 (GG) $325
  • Nitto NT01 $285
Hybrids:
  • Dunlop Direzza ZII $290
  • Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R $276
  • Hankook R-S3 Z222 $220
I ended up going with the Toyos, will post impressions after I've run them for a bit.
Edited by V28VX37

Cross posting from the tyre thread since the semis are relevant here too. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72923-tyres-you-used-and-how-u-would-rate-them/page-74

Called around a lot yesterday, here's some fresh Melbourne prices (hopefully I scribbled them down right) using the 225/45R17 size as a reference:
Semis:
  • Dunlop DZ03G $640
  • Hankook Z221 (C50) $463
  • Yokohama Advan A050 $462
  • Bridgestone Potenza RE11S $450
  • Toyo Proxes R888 (GG) $325
  • Nitto NT01 $285
Hybrids:
  • Dunlop Direzza ZII $290
  • Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R $276
  • Hankook R-S3 Z222 $220
I ended up going with the Toyos, will post impressions after I've run them for a bit.

I have a mate who imports the Z221 235/45/17 in soft for $400 a corner.

PM me if interested!

  • Like 1

There's a new Toyo R888-R semi slick out now. I saw them in the flesh at Phillip Island last weekend. They're supposed to be the same GG compound but they felt alot softer to me. Assymetric tread pattern instead of the old directional pattern.

  • Like 1

I have a mate who imports the Z221 235/45/17 in soft for $400 a corner.

PM me if interested!

Thanks Dan, does he do any other sizes? A mate of mine has an Evo and is looking to upgrade his NT01's at some stage, I think they're 18's.

There's a new Toyo R888-R semi slick out now. I saw them in the flesh at Phillip Island last weekend. They're supposed to be the same GG compound but they felt alot softer to me. Assymetric tread pattern instead of the old directional pattern.

Cheers Harry, great to know! I found some info here about the UK release: http://www.toyo.co.uk/page/index/identifier/1

Yes the compound designation is the same 'GG' ('SG' also available) but I wouldn't be surprised if it's all new. The tread pattern is completely different to the R888.

One article said that the R will supersede the normal R888 over the course of 2015, and the Aus site lists R888 as 'while stocks last'.

I priced these with my tyre shop today and they are available, the R888R is around $50 more per corner over the R888.

R888 datasheet: http://toyotires.com.au/images/tyres/factsheet/pdf/proxesr888.pdf

R888R datasheet: http://toyotires.com.au/images/tyres/factsheet/pdf/ProxesR888R.pdf

What's curious is that the R888 is load rated 94W in 235/45ZR17 but the R888R is only 91W. It's also a couple of mm narrower.

I've decided to stick with the R888, should be good enough for a first set of semis :)

Thanks Dan, does he do any other sizes? A mate of mine has an Evo and is looking to upgrade his NT01's at some stage, I think they're 18's.

Yup, he does.

Check out his site for the most up to date pricing: http://www.autosphere.com.au/c/4485118/1/18-tyres.html

  • Like 1

Well turns out that R888 was out of stock in my size so I ended up getting the new R888R after all. The tread pattern is really curious, see below - there are no arrows on the sidewalls just the marking 'outside', so these will roll in different directions on opposing sides.

What's the recommended run in/scrub in procedure for semis?

Based on some sources you could just run them on the freeway for 20 minutes and then let them sit for a couple of days?

23166784965_61fa14a021_z.jpg

ideally, you want to do one smooth session on the track - no sliding, no understeering, but get them nice and hot. Then you take them off and leave them at least overnight. No-one does that though - just use them and don't worry about breaking them in. If you're fussy, be nice and smooth on them for the first track day.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...