Jump to content
SAU Community

Circuit Semi Slicks


Roy

Recommended Posts

AD08R's are miles ahead of KU36's, very impressed with them.

Tried to source a set of 235/40/17 AD08R's, but no luck whatsoever as they're out of stock nationally and the ETA for the next batch is 'unknown'.

Then tried to source some Toyo R888's instead, but no luck as none in stock nationally and none on order.

So it looks like im even gonna have to source my farkkkinn tyres direct from Japan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my take on these street-track crossover tyres is that anything that costs as much as cheaper semis is pointless - buy the semis! So for me that rules out AD08, RS3 and R1R. If you really have to have the fastest tyre over 120 UTQG reagardless, WTAC pre-control tyres pretty much proved its the RS3. And they should be cheaper than AD08 too.

Otherwise that basically leaves the choices down to KU36, RSR and 123S if you're looking for something cheaper than semis that will do an OK job on the track and road..

RSR are the fastest of the rest but wear out so quickly that buying semis works out to be better value.

KU36 - I've had these on a Supra and Legnum. They do respectable times and can cop an absolute flogging. They were quiet on the Supra but noisey on the Legnum. They were good in the wet imo, but many disagree with that. 180 treadwear. These lasted as long as normal road tyres on my Supra and did heaps of track days locally and interstate. I wouldn't hesitate to buy these again.

123S - all i really know is the Excel racers do pretty respectable times on them. 200 treadwear and very deep tread - might be a bit squirmy at first but they should last pretty well. Sidewalls seem nice and stiff too. I just put a set of these on my Datto yesterday. The main reasons I chose these over KU36 was that he had them in stock and gave me a pretty sharp price on them.

Car is set up for R comps which are used for proper track days and will stay that way. Don't want to get a wheel alignment every time I change tyres so will live with the less than optimum setup for the roadies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

AD08R's are miles ahead of KU36's, very impressed with them.

ok let's do the exercise step by step. My Soarer needs new rear tyres: 265/35 R18

Yokohama AD08R $467ea

Hankook RS3 $ ?? couldn't find a price, but even the Z221 semi is $479 - a whopping $12 more than AD08R!

Kumho KU36 $225ea

Nitton NT05 $220ea

Achillies 123S $195ea

Federal RSR $190ea

Nankang NS2R $179ea

one of these things is not like the others!

It's good to hear they're miles ahead of the KU36. They'd bloody well want to be - they're more than double the price! You're paying full on semi-slick money for them. Why not just buy semis? Semis won't last a whole lot less using them on the road. Here's a couple that are way cheaper than AD08R

R888 265/35 $380ea

NT01 275/35 $280ea

The only reason I can see to buy AD08R is if you are competing in Superlap Clubsprint class.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing to consider is that there are people claiming to have done 12 track days and 5,000km on the street on AD08Rs. Certainly not possible to get that sort of economy out of A050s

I actually got around 18days over 2 years and +15,000km on a silvia running 235/45/17. The replacements were $300pc fitted/balanced and unlike Harry, other road tyres weren't that much cheaper whereas decent semis were quite a bit more, only r888 came in at that price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

fair enough if you can get them for a similar price as other crossover tyres, or if you're in an event/series that requires these sort of things. I guess with more events having street tyre classes these days it's kinda changing the equation a bit - if you want to be competitive, you buy the best tyres allowed regardless of cost.

18 track days is pretty impressive life! My old Supra got 12 track days and 15,000km on KU36s before the rears wore out, and I thought that was good...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok let's do the exercise step by step. My Soarer needs new rear tyres: 265/35 R18

Yokohama AD08R $467ea

Hankook RS3 $ ?? couldn't find a price, but even the Z221 semi is $479 - a whopping $12 more than AD08R!

Kumho KU36 $225ea

Nitton NT05 $220ea

Achillies 123S $195ea

Federal RSR $190ea

Nankang NS2R $179ea

one of these things is not like the others!

It's good to hear they're miles ahead of the KU36. They'd bloody well want to be - they're more than double the price! You're paying full on semi-slick money for them. Why not just buy semis? Semis won't last a whole lot less using them on the road. Here's a couple that are way cheaper than AD08R

R888 265/35 $380ea

NT01 275/35 $280ea

The only reason I can see to buy AD08R is if you are competing in Superlap Clubsprint class.

Hey mate,

Not sure if you tried Traction Tyres, but I got AD08R's in the same size for 380 (think it was actually 365...can look at the receipt if u want), a couple of months ago.

I was quoted 430 for 285/30/18.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

about to give a few options a try

r888 were shit but consistently shit

just put a set of ao50m's on so will let ya know how they go compared to the 888's is expect them to be awesome for a lap then f**k out with the gtrs weight

then will review against a set of c70's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TAlking about AD08s and RS3s in this thread?

They aren't semi slicks / r-compounds at all!

Nobody said they were. In fact, the discussion started with someone saying he already had R-comps but wanted some S-comps for driving to events about 400km away and as a road tyre iirc.

Edited by hrd-hr30
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No argument there, but a circuit capable tyre for less than half the cost of most r-compounds is worth mentioning.

Haha just having a stir :)

Nitto NT05 pricing outta Taleb is almost the best value atm IMO. My set of 20" is like 1,100... Now that is cheap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

well tried the hankcock c70, i bought 6 295/45/18 for 500

some were pretty thrashed

compared to the new r888's i had on they were epic

almost hit the first water filled barrier on the track because when i turned the steering wheel the car tunred

scared the shit out of me

easily held 10km/h higher speeds mid corner

would band again

i am guessing if you bought new one they would be ever better

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well tried the hankcock c70, i bought 6 295/45/18 for 500

some were pretty thrashed

compared to the new r888's i had on they were epic

almost hit the first water filled barrier on the track because when i turned the steering wheel the car tunred

scared the shit out of me

easily held 10km/h higher speeds mid corner

would band again

i am guessing if you bought new one they would be ever better

You talking about the soft compound Z221 - the C7?

How are they relative to the A050's?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It does sound like a fuse considering the indicators work..I’ll triple check when I’m free and report back.    thanks for the reply.
    • no, the car was a manual 5 speed from the factory and still is.
    • While going through data logs late last week, I spotted a small issue with my WMI. My WMI starts to progressively inject at 11psi of boost. I'm using a 25psi cut in pressure switch on my WMI as an added safety and if the curve is linear, I should hit that 25psi on my WMI system around 13-14psi of boost.  As per my data logs, my WMI pressure switch only activates around 19psi of boost. This is causing my non WMI 4D map to trim for WMI. I'm presuming this is caused by the mechanical switch response time, injection curve not being linear or both.  I ordered a 2-10psi adjustable cut in pressure switch which should correct this. If this doesn't resolve it before my dyno appointment on Friday, I'll just remove the pressure switch temporarily and more than likely replace it with a pressure transmitter afterwards.    BTW Speedtek has yet to refund me.
    • Yep PETG (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol), my 'go to' plastic, printed to precisely how long I wanted 🙂, about a finger length ha ha. I would usually grind up something but since I've got the printer I thought I might give it a try and it worked beautifully ^_^b So with regards to torque, there's a little bit of science behind the orientation of the print, fill density, fill pattern and number of external perimeters which can increase the strength dramatically, but you still need to work within the constraints of the material and the orientation of the model for sure. I certainly wouldn't be making a breaker bar out of plastic, but this little bugger is very strong for it's size that's for sure.
    • This is the part I was unprepared for. I mean, thinking about it now, the first day I collected my car from the importer someone posted a photo of it on the highway to an online JDM page which my friend then sent me. I drove straight to the office to pick up some things and was immediately swarmed by about ten college kids -  "how much power" "why no wing" etc. The next couple times I went out I didn't really notice anything, there was a "why no wing" at a service area at some point. Then during the fourth time out driving at the Nurburgring I got the "do a drift" - the bastard cut it out in this clip. The title in itself is a red flag. As you may have guessed, I am not a fan of the attention. This leads me to wondering what to do with the car in the future; I'll see how this year goes and it may be garaged, which it mostly is already, or maybe even sent back to Japan  to also be garaged and driven occasionally on visits. Fortunately my daily is as interesting as drying paint.   
×
×
  • Create New...