Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

make sure you keep the restrictor in the breather hoses, it is there for a reason

Do all RB engines have that or just 26's? When I setup my breather system I looked for a restrictor in the stock breather hoses and there was nothing...

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Do all RB engines have that or just 26's? When I setup my breather system I looked for a restrictor in the stock breather hoses and there was nothing...

As far as i know its only the 26 that has that on there, i know my 20 doesn't and i'm fairly confident the 25 doesn't either.

I highly suggest you read this, as it has pretty much all the answers to your questions thumbsup.gif

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/314402-project-rb31dett-the-development-of-my-open-deck-rb-engine-and-the-quest-for-more-torque/page__view__findpost__p__6039475

Will this be efficient?

*excluding the breather though.

IMG_0196.jpg

No!. All this is doing is blowing the exh side gasses straight back to the turbo intake, totally defeating the purpose of installing the catch can - more correctly "oil-air-separator".

Leave the "U" hose connecting the 2 rocker covers. Disconnect the hose going from the exh cover down to the intake side of the turbo, and re-direct that to the catch can. Run the other fitting on the catch can back to the inlet side of the turbo. Simple.

Edited by blind_elk

Do all RB engines have that or just 26's? When I setup my breather system I looked for a restrictor in the stock breather hoses and there was nothing...

My 20 had a brass restrictor in the return pipe to the intake for the factory breather setup

No!. All this is doing is blowing the exh side gasses straight back to the turbo intake, totally defeating the purpose of installing the catch can - more correctly "oil-air-separator".

Leave the "U" hose connecting the 2 rocker covers. Disconnect the hose going from the exh cover down to the intake side of the turbo, and re-direct that to the catch can. Run the other fitting on the catch can back to the inlet side of the turbo. Simple.

Thanks alot man. That's all I wanted to know haha.

On my old gtr I had the autech style oil/air separator that sits ontop of the cam covers,

My new gtr has the pcv blocked, oil return to turbo inlet blocked and just running 2 hoses from cam covers to an atmo catch can, anything wrong with this besides been illegal?

Not a huge fan of this setup but that catch can/washer bottle fills the spot where the battery was (battery is relocated to boot)

The advantage of having the catch can breather connected to an intake is that it creates suction and helps clear the vapours better. This requires a proper catch can which functions as an oil/air seperator or a seperate oil /air seperator (you don't have to buy the Nismo ones - Moroso do them cheaper or you could have one fabricated) in the line. If you are having a catch can made you can specify proper baffling. Some catch cans have removable tops and bottoms and you can check and modify them yourself if necessary. Some ebay catch cans are so small and useless as to be for show only.

If you have heaps of blow by for what ever reason and the catch can set up you have is not coping then you will not want to feed this into your intake. Preferably you will fix the problem or modify your system to deal with it but (in NZ anyway) you can vent to atmosphere for track cars.

I have seen the engine bays of a number of Japanese race cars that have air oil seperators and one or two catch cans and run the breathers into the intake.

Indeed the good old steel wool in a stocking will be going inside the can.

This does f**k all, trust me. It's more likely to leave you with bits of disintegrated stocking and metal fibers in your intake then separate any oil from the air.

You have a GTR, give it the parts it deserves and get a properly baffled catch can. I got my custom combined 2L catch can/radiator overflow bottle from Pro Fabrications for $390 delivered, Brad is a good bloke and knows exactly what he is doing. Spend a bit more cash and do it right.

426487_10150508799027541_519882540_9106071_909800602_n.jpg

Edited by Hanaldo

i have a catch tank just like the one above n seems to work well.

i have a drain hole at the bottom of the can and i also have a spare fitting on the bottom of my extended sump.

if i was to run a braided line from the can directly to the sump would this be effective? or will oil from my sump just run up that line back towards the can?

When we do a sump & catch can for the same vehicle I always suggest a breather hose from a high point of the sump above oil level to the base of the catch can.

It just provides a better vent for the crankcase not a drain for the catch can.

This does f**k all, trust me. It's more likely to leave you with bits of disintegrated stocking and metal fibers in your intake then separate any oil from the air.

You have a GTR, give it the parts it deserves and get a properly baffled catch can. I got my custom combined 2L catch can/radiator overflow bottle from Pro Fabrications for $390 delivered, Brad is a good bloke and knows exactly what he is doing. Spend a bit more cash and do it right.

I was waiting for this quote. Obviously Im looking for my best option. Not OH MY GOD NIIIIISSSSSMMMMOOOOOOO! haha.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
    • Murphy strikes again! Nothing at all would have gone wrong if you had the tool kit in the car! You'd have just found the clamp loose the next time you went to touch it...
    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
×
×
  • Create New...