Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How much does it drop egts on your setup?

They don't drop noticably at all with the new nozzle sizes. I still see 800-810 degrees if I hold it flat past 7000 rpm. This I suspect is due to the reduced volume compared to my last setup. There is perhaps 1-2 degrees more of advance in the ignition map with this setup, which is a nice safety buffer if I want to give it a hard time in 40 degree heat.

Yeah fair enough :)

I think I'll stay away from pre turbo on my car for now

I'd be to worried about water pooling as it would have to make a hard 90deg turn

Might have to try and get a temp reading though as the intake pipe sits directly above the turbos if it is hot enough to keep the water vaporized it may work

I understand the thermodynamics of what your trying to say but it doesn't make sense in reality. If water increased the dynamic comp then why don't you add it all the time? Surely you will gain hp everywhere? I'm not bagging water injection as a way of quenching chamber temps and slowing flame propagation rates but all the hype about it disassociating the hydrogen and oxygen and the water turns to steam which creates greater dynamic comp is a load of.

alot of high powered NA cars do run water meth for a hell of alot more time that you guys do on boost,

however I don't believe he said that it splits the water into Hydrogen and oxygen and it wont as you require a few other factors going on, like electrolysis.

Yet as for the increase in comp, it depends on where abouts in the cycle your talking, on the actual compression stroke you would prob see a decrease in compression as the water absorbs a hell of a lot of heat and cools the mixture making a lower pressure area, however then when you are on the combustion stroke, the water is heated way beyond the point it will remain as water and will become steam and at this stage you will have an increase in compression, im not 100% sure on if the net result will be an increase or decrease in compression overall and i really cant be arsed trying to work it out.

I understand the thermodynamics of what your trying to say but it doesn't make sense in reality. If water increased the dynamic comp then why don't you add it all the time? Surely you will gain hp everywhere? I'm not bagging water injection as a way of quenching chamber temps and slowing flame propagation rates but all the hype about it disassociating the hydrogen and oxygen and the water turns to steam which creates greater dynamic comp is a load of.

Water injected as a vapor is still an uncompressable liquid. This alone is the primary reason dynamic compression increases.

What happens with cylinder pressures when the water turns to steam during combustion doesn't relate to dynamic compression. H2o can not dissociate into base elements from pressure alone either. In the combustion chamber it just expands a lot due to the 950+ degree combustion temps.

Yes water increased all the time would increase power in theory. The problem is metering it correctly so you inject the correct amount per cylinder for ligher loads. If you consider that 425cc/min is correct for a 700hp 3lt 6 cylinder, the correct single nozzle size for the same engine making 45hp is 36cc, or 6cc cylinder. So you see for light loads the issue is getting accurate delivery to each cylinder without the nozzles blocking.

An alternative solution that I have read about for lean burn/economy tuning which might partially solves this issue is steam injection. Injecting as steam allows nozzle sizes to be larger. It also allows distribution to cylinders to be more easily achieved from a common injection point. Steam injection temps are high (say 150+ degrees), but still much less than combustion temps. Steam temps would also drop as they approach the engines intake valve and at the same time raise both the dynamic compression ratio and the effective octane rating of the fuel. This is a completely different concept to performance tuning with WMI though.

I remember seeing photos of a bloke with a supercharged 6 cyl falcon who mounted the nozzle in the snout of the blower and after 6 months had cut a slot in the impeller about 10mm long on each blade

This was back in the 90s so the kits were quite basic and just injected a jet of water rather than a mist

has anyone run pre-turbo for extended use ( eg couple of years) and noted any wear on comp wheel?

There is some good info on the aquamist forum about longevity of pre-turbo systems and wear on the impeller. Long story short was if you inject it correctly as a fine mist and have a good shutoff system there isn't an issue.

Water injected as a vapor is still an uncompressable liquid. This alone is the primary reason dynamic compression increases.

What happens with cylinder pressures when the water turns to steam during combustion doesn't relate to dynamic compression. H2o can not dissociate into base elements from pressure alone either. In the combustion chamber it just expands a lot due to the 950+ degree combustion temps.

Yes water increased all the time would increase power in theory. The problem is metering it correctly so you inject the correct amount per cylinder for ligher loads. If you consider that 425cc/min is correct for a 700hp 3lt 6 cylinder, the correct single nozzle size for the same engine making 45hp is 36cc, or 6cc cylinder. So you see for light loads the issue is getting accurate delivery to each cylinder without the nozzles blocking.

An alternative solution that I have read about for lean burn/economy tuning which might partially solves this issue is steam injection. Injecting as steam allows nozzle sizes to be larger. It also allows distribution to cylinders to be more easily achieved from a common injection point. Steam injection temps are high (say 150+ degrees), but still much less than combustion temps. Steam temps would also drop as they approach the engines intake valve and at the same time raise both the dynamic compression ratio and the effective octane rating of the fuel. This is a completely different concept to performance tuning with WMI though.

Your not listening - if you inject water in the most precise manner you will still lose hp power due to the effect that water has on lowing the flame progegation speed. And as for lean burn engines, slowing the flame front and adding another non combustable vapor is the exact opposite to what you want. I've worked with combustion engineers that have had petrol engine running as lean as lambda 2 and I've never heard of water or steam injection as a theory to help lean burn conditions. Do you realize that chamber temps decrease either side of stoic.

I have a direct injection VQ25 here with the high pressure mechanical fuel pump. I was going to ditch the heads and put the turbo ones on but you just gave me the idea of utilizing the injectors and pump for water injection. If I could get them to fire at different points in the combustion cycle it could have huge benefits, especially with high compression + ethanol...

Your not listening - if you inject water in the most precise manner you will still lose hp power due to the effect that water has on lowing the flame progegation speed. And as for lean burn engines, slowing the flame front and adding another non combustable vapor is the exact opposite to what you want. I've worked with combustion engineers that have had petrol engine running as lean as lambda 2 and I've never heard of water or steam injection as a theory to help lean burn conditions. Do you realize that chamber temps decrease either side of stoic.

Decreasing the flame speed is exactly what you want to do to reduce potential of detonation in high boosted engines, especially if guys are running these engines with tight quench and higher compression.

I spend a few hrs on the stagea today and mounted tank, and ran the lines under the car in convoluted tubing,(did a few other things at same time like running 8ga wire for hardwiring fuel pump)

still have to mount the solenoid/ wire it to igntion and drill and tap the intake pipe for the

injector and its done, maybe next weekend. I was thinking about running a 100cc jet with the stock turbo and see how much more i could get out of it with a bit of timing added for shit and giggles, whats a good

auto Rb25 neo make usually on 12psi-180-190rwkw?

cheers

darren

I have a direct injection VQ25 here with the high pressure mechanical fuel pump. I was going to ditch the heads and put the turbo ones on but you just gave me the idea of utilizing the injectors and pump for water injection. If I could get them to fire at different points in the combustion cycle it could have huge benefits, especially with high compression + ethanol...

Sorry mate fuel injecters wilcorrode/rust up,read it on other forums n was talking with a relative over easter bout this, he water injection on an old carby fed holden statesman. had a very basic setup think he had 5 smallish injectors into the carby into a spacer he had up had no injection at idle, then two would open up with the first two barrels when they opened, then the next 2 with the, 3rd an fourth barrells using the vacum (somehow) then the fith was on the front of the carby an opened under full throttle when there was no vacum powered buy a washer bottle pump. he never changed the timing didnt notice much performance but got a 50% improvement in fuel, went from getting 400km a tank to 600km a tank. but after a couple of months the nozzels corroded/rusted up. an he couldnt find any to handle water (that was quiet a few years ago)

also back in the 80's dad's cousin had water/meth injection on his car had great performance gains but if the car sat for a few weeks or a month the water/meth mix all went to jelly an clogged all the lines an the tank also had to be cleaned out..anyone had these problems?? maybe meth has improved over the years or the were running a different mix ratio.

as for getting power from water an old man from i think Dalby (se qld) did time for not paying tax on water used for fuel, tho thinking he may have bn using electrolisis, he could drive an old bus from dalby to cairns on 40L of fuel..about 2000km!!...tight arse government lol

wish i'd descovered how good water/meth injection a cpl months ago before i spent money on cams to get more power while sacrificing drivability...but its got a nice idle lol

Sorry mate fuel injecters wilcorrode/rust up,read it on other forums n was talking with a relative over easter bout this, he water injection on an old carby fed holden statesman. had a very basic setup think he had 5 smallish injectors into the carby into a spacer he had up had no injection at idle, then two would open up with the first two barrels when they opened, then the next 2 with the, 3rd an fourth barrells using the vacum (somehow) then the fith was on the front of the carby an opened under full throttle when there was no vacum powered buy a washer bottle pump. he never changed the timing didnt notice much performance but got a 50% improvement in fuel, went from getting 400km a tank to 600km a tank. but after a couple of months the nozzels corroded/rusted up. an he couldnt find any to handle water (that was quiet a few years ago)

I knew the pump and injectors wouldn't last long with water alone, I was contemplating flushing the system with WD40 or mixing a little water soluble oil in perhaps. I'm just interested to see what effect direct injecting the water at different points in the cycle would have.

im seriously considering a WMI kit as safety measure and hopefuly bring turbos on sooer,

how would the SNOW stage 2 performance water methanol kit go in an R32 GTR?

is there another kit more suited to these cars?

this may be a stupid question, but where do you purchase methanol from?

Would still be worth it as a safety measure. Even injecting just distilled water

Just curious as to where one would mount the nozzle on a gtr? On the plenum? Or on the intercooler hard pipe joining to the plenum (that's if you have an alloy pipe there and not the stock rubber one)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had another look at the car and I noticed the fuel pump isn't priming on ignition. I'd taken out the pump from the boot to siphon out the old fuel, so maybe I've knocked something loose or broken a wire putting things back together. Will go back with a multimeter and try to work out what's stuffed. Kinda hoping it's the pump itself thats gone so I can upgrade it
    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
×
×
  • Create New...