Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just bought an aquamist kit. bit more expensive but as it injrcts based on injectors duty cycle it is easily tuned. The problen with boost referenced kits is 20psi at 3500rpn needs less flow than 16psi at 6500 rpm.

In that particular case, which scenario do you think would have higher cylinder pressure?

cheers

darren

In that particular case, which scenario do you think would have higher cylinder pressure?

cheers

darren

I know what you mean, and can adjust the aquamist to be an on/off style system if required. Time will tell when I finally get out on the car how it is best setup.

Hey you guys that run pre turbo, any of you maxed out your comp side and have any before/after sheets? or even how much boost you could run before/after? I only have info on one car running pre turbo meth that jumped 7PSI on the same boost setting and kept making power.

The thing is, is apparently you pick up 5 ish percent more comp flow pre-turbo

Now the thing i see holding that back, is generally most peoples turbo setups are turbine/exhaust housing restricted

so more comp flow i would guess might not do much if the bottleneck is at the other end..

But atm, we have setup a 50cc (and have a 100cc spare aswell)pre-turbo jet on a E85 fuelled 3076 .63 setup Rb25 neo that will be run flat out

and is already leant on hard, so we will see soon if it makes much difference.

All my setups have been compressor limited, and even my new Gt45 setup on my 31 is comp limited.

If you look at v8 turbo drag racing,or turbo restricted, pre comp is pretty popular, AIS systems are very popular

cheers

darren

The thing is, is apparently you pick up 5 ish percent more comp flow pre-turbo

Now the thing i see holding that back, is generally most peoples turbo setups are turbine/exhaust housing restricted

so more comp flow i would guess might not do much if the bottleneck is at the other end..

But atm, we have setup a 50cc (and have a 100cc spare aswell)pre-turbo jet on a E85 fuelled 3076 .63 setup Rb25 neo that will be run flat out

and is already leant on hard, so we will see soon if it makes much difference.

All my setups have been compressor limited, and even my new Gt45 setup on my 31 is comp limited.

If you look at v8 turbo drag racing,or turbo restricted, pre comp is pretty popular, AIS systems are very popular

cheers

darren

Ahh ok, thanks for the reply. Although i don't own a RB or a skyline not many Z32 owners do anything other than add boltons so i come here for real info. There are a few stock turbo z32's running low 11's at 120-124mph on stock snails with the boost spiking to 24PSI in the mid range to 17PSI up top so i'm hoping that the pre turbo meth may allow a few more MPH to try crack a 10 second pass.

yeh i have no idea mate, im no expert, but have done a far few setups now, its definitly worth a shot

id like to know aswell as everything ive used so far hasn;t been turbo limited(but will be in the future)

i think if you've already got the octane (eg c16, e85 etc)then a very small amount is the go, enough to give more comp

flow without killing the power,.

the Rb25 3076 setup should show something.... hopefully

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Have a look in my sig mate. I used it with my 3076 on my rb25. (0.63 rear housing)

Ran 12.9:1 AFRs and huge timing at 22psi.

End result was 320rwkw and 800nm or torque that held to the limiter from 3k.

Was an animal.

Edited by The Mafia
  • 3 weeks later...

Okay, so seriously thinking of getting an aquamist kit, they appear to be a quality product with good fail safe options. Which way are people getting the best results on rb26's? I'm currently running -5's @20psi, (so the turbo's could easy give another 5 psi but to be safe from knock I've limited it to 20 psi) standard compression, still got the standard individual throttle bodies. Is it best just to have 1 nozzle just before the intake plenum? Or best to use 2 smaller jets spaced out? Or go one for each cylinder an just one before the intake plenum twice the size of the other 6? An how many cc injectors are ppl , and finding best? Any help would be appreciated, motor is currently being rebuild to should get the plenum tapped now if I'm going to use one nozzle for each. Thanks for your help :)

Put the nozzle as far before the plenum as you can. Give the water time to cool the air, give it distance and time to affect all the air and reduce the possibility of mal-distribution that might happen if you do it right at the plenum. But do it after the intercooler.

Was going to put a 10L w/m tank in the boot, but then thought the tank will have to breath, an don't really want meth fumes in the car, how are people over coming this?

its mixed in water..there is no fumes..lol.

Out of interest i pulled my stageas turbo of the other week to get it upgraded again, and after 15,000km running pre-turbo on a pump/atomiser

system and a 600cc CM coolingmist jet..there was no sign of any compressor wear....apparently the coolingmist nozzles have the finest spray?

I only did it as i wanted to see for myself the results,after seeing all the internet images ,

i still woudn't recommend it unless you want to take ownership for your own actions.

cleaned the 40 micron filter aswell, f**k me even quality meth at 50/50 it leaves shit in there after a while, without the filter you would end up with a dead motor

and clogged nozzle constantly...its easy to see how people in the U.S and there moronic ways of running 100 percent meth leave a trail of broken motors....

its asking for it from the tuning side of things, let alone what it would do ,running it straight through one of these wmi pumps...lmao

To be honest im half thinking of going back to straight water again for a daily car, the demineralised water is clean as, and probally alot better for pump life, still makes f**kloads of power over 98 to..

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

its mixed in water..there is no fumes..lol.

Out of interest i pulled my stageas turbo of the other week to get it upgraded again, and after 15,000km running pre-turbo on a pump/atomiser

system and a 600cc CM coolingmist jet..there was no sign of any compressor wear....apparently the coolingmist nozzles have the finest spray?

I only did it as i wanted to see for myself the results,after seeing all the internet images ,

i still woudn't recommend it unless you want to take ownership for your own actions.

cleaned the 40 micron filter aswell, f**k me even quality meth at 50/50 it leaves shit in there after a while, without the filter you would end up with a dead motor

and clogged nozzle constantly...its easy to see how people in the U.S and there moronic ways of running 100 percent meth leave a trail of broken motors....

its asking for it from the tuning side of things, let alone what it would do ,running it straight through one of these wmi pumps...lmao

To be honest im half thinking of going back to straight water again for a daily car, the demineralised water is clean as, and probally alot better for pump life, still makes f**kloads of power over 98 to..

cheers

darren

Cheers for the update Darren

What about the intercooler will fill up with water issue people that havent tried it worry about? Lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...