Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Plugged in my nistuned z32 ecu today which i got from Matt at nistune and the car seems to fine with it in, but the exhaust temp light on the dash is on as soon as the car is turned on.

I have a 96 gtst that I always thought was a series 2 which meant I didnt have to worry about the FICD pin on the z32 ecu being different to the s2 rb25det ecu.

Taken from the nistune website:

5) FICD output – pin 33

* Series 1 R33 only

The R33 Series 1 RB25 engine uses pin 33 for the Exhaust Overtemp Lamp on the dash.This line should be disconnected as the Z32 uses this line to drive the FICD (Fast Idle Control Device) – for idle up when aircon is on. FICD is driven seperately on the R33 Series 1 RB25 via the aircon system. Note that the R33 Series 2 RB25 does use the FICD the same as the Z32 ECU, so this modification is not required for those engines

Anyone know what might be causing the exhaust temp lamp to be coming on or If there was some series 1.5 r33's that run the series 1 ecu but have series 2 bodies etc produced in early 96 or something?

Is there anyway to tell whether its a series 1 or 2 ecu with the serial numbers on the ecu?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396417-nistuned-z32ecu-for-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Are u sure ur car isnt a series 1.5. R33 are tricky when it comes to z32 ecu.

Will be easy enough to sort out mitcho.

Does the car drive or is it in limp mode?

Seems to drive fine, I took it around the block and it didnt die on me or anything, but that was only a quick spin so im not sure.

How can i tell for certain what series it is? Certainly has the series 2 front bar and rear wing and a passenger side airbag that much I know...

Edited by Mitcho_7

Does it have another check engine light? On R32 the exhaust (catalyst) overtemp light is the check engine light. When it is on 100%, it is the ECU advising that there is a fualt code to be read.

Mine is on right now because the Neo ECU and engine are happy, but they're not happy that the traction control stuff is not present. Connect with Nistune, can see exactly those fault codes.

You might have a sensor fault or something rasing a code.

Does it have another check engine light?

Yeh above the cat temp light is the check engine light which isnt on.

For the time being i have dissconnect the z32 and put my r33 ecu back in, but I still want to get it sorted. I have contacted matt at nistune and he has said it seems unusual, especially if my car is a series 2 as I thought.

From what I understand only 95 R33's are S1.5, anything 96 onwards is a series 2. The S1.5 had a series 2 engine. Im about to put a z32 nistune on my S1.5, hope I dont have this issue.

Correct.

don't worry about that light it should only read a resistance value from the sensor, I haven't seen it effect anything, didnt log codes or jump maps so I just cut the sensor out and disconnected it under the passenger seat, and i didnt get the light anymore, the only thing you should note is whether you have an igniter on top of the motor, if you do series 1 if not series 2 running gear

don't worry about that light it should only read a resistance value from the sensor, I haven't seen it effect anything, didnt log codes or jump maps so I just cut the sensor out and disconnected it under the passenger seat, and i didnt get the light anymore, the only thing you should note is whether you have an igniter on top of the motor, if you do series 1 if not series 2 running gear

So u have had the same issue with yours?

There is different ecu mods for each model. And Matt would have modded it to series 2 as u told him.

Few Q's.

Have u tried the A/C to see if the engine idles up?

Is there an ignitor on top of motor at the back?

Yeh, I tried the a/c with the z32 plugged in but because it was cold, it was idling fairly high anyway. The car didn't die went I put on the a/c. If its a series one, the ficd is done by the a/c separately isn't it so shouldnt it work regardless?

I'll go have a look for the igniter on the engine and get a pic now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...