Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mine surged on 1/4 tank Lol

so you're pretty lucky to not surge on E

Agreed - mine also starts to surge at around a quarter tank. Sard pump with all the stock mounting stuff. Jez needs to corner faster :devil:

The sudden loss of all power is a give away - no wideband required.

  • 2 weeks later...

So after a long day of testing today, they problem is as follows.

The pump has a main inlet where the hose and sock are connected, then there are 2 little holes where the fuel comes out. A priming/flow method for the pump.

Once the fuel level gets to below the fuel pump (where the 2 holes are exposed to air) the fuel pump needs 5 or 6 seconds of priming from a constant 12 volts before it starts to flow. In a GTR with a 0.7 sec priming cycle added to fuel rail pressure and the time it takes large injectors to fire = a long time of cranking over.

Now this is only a problem in applications where the fuel pump does not sit at the bottom of the tank i.e 33 34 GTR's. 32GTR's have a different fuel pick up set up hence no problem.

So seeing as I was the first 33GTR in unigroup to try the 400lph I was the lucky customer to be the guinea pig :S. boo I say.

Any way the solution Bosch 044 in tank haha.

Maybe nismoid can put this in his "handy threads" sticky to make it known for anyone who wants to run a 400lph Walbro, NOT to do so if the fuel pump is mounted in any other way other than close to the bottom.

Cheers

The dutch

Surely if the priming time was the issue you could extend the prime time? Why not give it a constant 12v.

Well if youve already put the 044 then thats that I guess.

Wanna sell your 400LPH?

The priming time would have to be changed to 8sec. Now that can be avoided if I just go to a 044.

As I said, I was at Unigroup all of yesterday, and we were testing pumps left right and centre. Tested 3 walbro 400lph outside the tank, and tested a 044.

The 400l was fine when submerged but no good when exposed to air. Did I really want a priming cycle of 8sec or maybe even more every time? No.

So we rigged up a 044 and did a swap, my 400l for the Bosch.

In short, sorry mate don't have the pump.

  • 2 weeks later...

So after a long day of testing today, they problem is as follows.

The pump has a main inlet where the hose and sock are connected, then there are 2 little holes where the fuel comes out. A priming/flow method for the pump.

Once the fuel level gets to below the fuel pump (where the 2 holes are exposed to air) the fuel pump needs 5 or 6 seconds of priming from a constant 12 volts before it starts to flow. In a GTR with a 0.7 sec priming cycle added to fuel rail pressure and the time it takes large injectors to fire = a long time of cranking over.

Now this is only a problem in applications where the fuel pump does not sit at the bottom of the tank i.e 33 34 GTR's. 32GTR's have a different fuel pick up set up hence no problem.

So seeing as I was the first 33GTR in unigroup to try the 400lph I was the lucky customer to be the guinea pig :S. boo I say.

Any way the solution Bosch 044 in tank haha.

Maybe nismoid can put this in his "handy threads" sticky to make it known for anyone who wants to run a 400lph Walbro, NOT to do so if the fuel pump is mounted in any other way other than close to the bottom.

Cheers

The dutch

so the whole pump needs to be submerged ie if i was to mount it on the bottom of the tank it should be right? any one know how these go in a stagea 260rs 1999?how do these wire up?

Edited by R33huntme

Dave posted saying he knows how to "fix it" and he does, last time I was at Enique I was shown why they don't work when not submerged and it is a quick simple thing to fix, shot Dave a pm and I sure he would be willing to explain it, he is a really nice guy if you don't make yourself come across as a f**k stick

Lol, thanks.

He actually took the liberty of pm'ing me. He did inform me to block off 1 of the two holes associated with the priming system. Now thats all good and well, but leave that pump for long enough unsubmerged and the fuel leaks out again.

Either way, we tested them, saw how they worked, blocked off holes, submerged it, left it out of fuel, we did everything bar taking the bloody thing apart.

Its a shame they have to be modified. But I dont mind the 044. Still quiter than my stock pump I had. haha.

yes, quick and easy fix. and they are on special at vpw for like 120 dollars..

hopfully they realise this fault and re-design the inlet acordingly. you cant just block them up either as it doesnt alow for the pump to self prime. if they are fully submerged the whole time there output goes up heaps with both the bleed holes blocked. :0

  • 3 months later...

Just installed 1 into r33 GTR. So far no issue's even on empty but testing to see.

Looking at how hight the pump sits in tank i would think it needs alot more than 1/4 tank to be submerged.

What is the mod that u speak of Dave?

Just installed 1 into r33 GTR. So far no issue's even on empty but testing to see.

Looking at how hight the pump sits in tank i would think it needs alot more than 1/4 tank to be submerged.

What is the mod that u speak of Dave?

My fuel light is on and it is still fine Jez

If they dont have the bleed holes then they will work.

Also remember that the car drove fine all the way to empty. But as soon as you shut it off and leave it for an hour (enough time for the fuel pump to bleed off) then the car would not start with approx 15l in the tank

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All the best with it mate. Hopefully no dramas. I found quite a few issues when i pulled mine out eg fkt trans and engine mounts, throwout bearing, i had not been aware of, so 'any car maint' can be worthwhile it seems.
    • I think it's the alternator, there's some cracked shit going on with the rectifier. But so far, seems to be fine again? No sparks, no weird arcing when the leads went on. I ran this past a mate, he said he had similar issues before and his auto sparky replaced the alternator. All I know is, car works, car not on fire lol.
    • Brother-in-law's workshop. And I'll be doing. Family doesn't get priority over long running customer jobs. It wouldn't normally take so long to get to a task of mine, but there was a series of unfortunate events involving the dyno (blowing it up) that caused a serious backlog in the normal workload, that has toaken literally forever to get out from underneath. I can't do, or more to the point, choose not to do, jobs at home that require tools I don't have or would leave me without my daily if something goes wrong that thwarts me. Gearbox out on the floor with chassis stands is not palatable when I can use a hoist at the shop. But I've only had the box for a few weeks. It's the injectors and AFM that have been waiting on access to the dyno.
    • Thanks for mentioning it on the forums! Much appreciated Jen and I likely can't make it this weekend, but looking forward to see what you folks cook up in the future. Enjoy!
    • Welp, I have been driving it around (a bit) and messing with idle and return to idle characteristics. This is all well and good until I discovered my starter motor... is nearly dead. This is unfortunately after I booked my exhaust and tune in. This is the new section of my exhaust, after losing my mind with vbands and clamps. Yes I now have 4 mufflers. The two middle ones are 5in body 3in pipe round straight through mufflers or incorrectly named 'resonators' whatever you want to call. How does it sound? Muffled.   Car runs richer now in low load. Is it restriction? Or lack of exhaust leaks. I also figured out a way to make the Analog Readout match the serial WB Readout. All of this requires a car to you know.. *start* to tune the maths, which was not ideal when I needed it to get to the exhaust shop and back. It started when cold. 30 mins after the car got home, it was time to get stuck into it. Unfortunately this thing has no identifying marks on it at all. I contacted Mal Wood and asked if he could send me a replacement and he asked me to remove it because they've changed starters with their kits a few times over the years. I asked other companies with LH LS starter conversions and they all use different starters unique to their kits. I did find CAE performance supply Mal Wood - But they are out of stock for this starter for the next 3 weeks. The tune is booked for Friday 30th. Here's hoping the local starter motor repair place (which interestingly has a 5 star review from Trent @ Chequered) can get this rebuilt/sorted out so I can get it on and put the car on the dyno. Here's hoping!
×
×
  • Create New...