Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 7.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

lol, yeam ummmmmm thanks to your water pump shitting itself, my car (white stagea) wasnt ready for pickup....... just needs the tune. I thoughtfully pre-shat my waterpump so it was actually replaced yesterday. lol.

damn.

nice gtr by the way.

leaving my car there till friday arvo (wife will have to drive it, nooooooooo); they will rip out the 'cooler piping for me and lip the edges of the piping so it doesnt ever pop off in future, then tune. wont be able to drive for a month tho; kneecap out 7am tomorrow. dang.

spotted a white stagea this morning going up torrens rd, and on the way home spotted a white r33 on salisbury hwy and a silver r33 near my house

If it was early morning like about 7:15ish and somewhere near where churchill rd joins torrens road then that'd be me :P

Just on the way to work :unsure:

Saw a black R32 GTR continuing up main north road at the gepps x intersection. Had a couple stickers on it... I waved to the guys in there (dunno if they saw) and then continued up Port wakefield rd.

-D

If it was early morning like about 7:15ish and somewhere near where churchill rd joins torrens road then that'd be me :domokun:

Just on the way to work :w00t:

it was about 10ish in the morning

also tonight on my way home saw a couple of 32's and 33's

saw 'flirty 2' black or blue r32 on main nth road bout 20 mins ago.

Saw white 33 go past bunnings modbury bout 6ish tonite, sau stickers front and back. Seen it a few times, not sure who it is?

spotted a black 32 gtr at pine av / bonython av roundabout about 1pm this arvo

jeff from TSL drivin thru there in his RB20 R31 bout 2 hours before that

Kye drivin down anzacs near kmart this arvo bout 4 (f**k that rain hey)

and a 32 GTR bein followed by a 32 GTST at morphett / seacombe road roundabout about 6ish

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...