Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Speaking of which, what would it cost for a N/A 2+2 300ZX? Was looking at a couple on Carsales instead of Stags for a change, xD. Seems like it would be a better first car than the Stag, plus I can always retrofit twin turbos later (with some difficulty).

300ZX eh?

Get used to this;

IMG_0036.jpg

If in doubt; engine out.

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

300ZX eh?

Get used to this;

IMG_0036.jpg

If in doubt; engine out.

Read about that, haha. If I do get a 300ZX, hopefully I won't have to pull the engine out too much. I'd probably just (after driving it home) pull the engine out and just replace anything and everything that hadn't been replaced recently, to hopefully save time+money in the long run instead of just replacing everything as it fails.

I agree with all previous posts/suggestions to OP.

Stag is not a suitable first car for 99% of people who just started to drive. A car that's reasonably cheaper, a tad bit older and had a lot of support (from mechanics and more general car community) would be much better for learning in both driving, maintenance and general car knowledge until enough "driving experience" such as car limits, handling different traffic situations, accidents, police attention etc. In the mean time you can also get contacts & connections such as trusty mechanics/workshops, where to buy parts and from which supplier while avoiding the dodgy mechanics, suppliers & stealerships (i mean dealership :P).

My 2 cents.

Edited by Sydsyd

Agree with what everyone else has written except Ryan :)

Craig is the only Stagea owner that should be missing their R31. Seriously, what could you possibly miss??

i had the same thing when getting the AXIS insured etc they didnt know what it was......... i'm like NO it isnt an ARX

Haha, at least the ARX was listed when you got your insurance!

Nothing like having to convince the finance company of the value of the car because there was no reference on Redbook lol. Had to go by the difference between C34 S1 and S2 :(

Agree with what everyone else has written except Ryan :)

Craig is the only Stagea owner that should be missing their R31. Seriously, what could you possibly miss??

Haha, at least the ARX was listed when you got your insurance!

Nothing like having to convince the finance company of the value of the car because there was no reference on Redbook lol. Had to go by the difference between C34 S1 and S2 :(

i had to get an independant valuation of the AXIS and submit it to the insurance company lol

Agree with what everyone else has written except Ryan :)

Craig is the only Stagea owner that should be missing their R31. Seriously, what could you possibly miss??

That hurts man! R31 was a great car, and we did everything and went everywhere with it! Never under estimate the R31!

That hurts man! R31 was a great car, and we did everything and went everywhere with it! Never under estimate the R31!

I'm with you Ryan! Served me well, owned for 10 years, 300,000km on an already 190 000km old engine, bought back from the insurance company twice & rebuilt after being written off (both times by pensioners) Suspension work, GTR brakes, manual conversion, R33 rack conversion; awesome.

I miss the boxy goodness of my 31 too...

post-61153-0-84453900-1334621135_thumb.jpg

Maybe we can give OP a insight into first cars. Post up your first car- pics can be representative if you don't have a pic any more...

Mine: 1978 C210 Skyline Coupe - $500

6245798126_065dd137b2.jpg

IMG_4089[1] by PNM35, on Flickr

VH Commodore. Light blue with blue vinyl seats that would strip your skin off in the summer.

No air-con of course and the "mighty" *cough* 3.3 I6.

Was not treated well.

gvh.jpg

Then a blue R31 sedan (series 3). Was more comfortable and only slightly more reliable than the VH even though it was looked after a lot better.

R31.jpg

Then the M35, again blue. Whilst I did actually like the colour I do not like blue as a car colour in general although I can understand if you thought otherwise!

Thank fk that the next Stag is not blue! :)

Maybe we can give OP a insight into first cars. Post up your first car- pics can be representative if you don't have a pic any more...

Mine: 1978 C210 Skyline Coupe - $500

Good idea Alex;

Not my pics, but mine looked identical to this.

Triumph 2500S;

triumph-2500s-0419486001319215692.jpg

With a bit of this underbonnet shizzle;

triumph-2500s-0740464001319215696.jpg

Full Smiths gauge dash, timber trim, and an 4speed gearbox with electric overdrive.

Jealous much?

Just discovered what I SHOULD have bought;

2742057910_637c1982e1.jpg

Edited by Daleo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...