Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

When new, they come covered in a fine coating of a grease / oil to prevent corrosion. You should always wash them thoroughly before installing them.

theres supposed to be a protective coating on them that should be taken off, did anyone do that, i just dropped them in

  • 3 months later...

I'm looking at putting these tomei cams in, iv got a spare head that I'm putting together new springs bit of a port and full clean of everything. I'm trying to find out if the tomei poncam still use vct or it is disconnected? what is the real loss if I disconnect the vct? iv already got a set of hks cam gears as well. I'm aiming for the 400kw range and as low boost as possible. has anyone used the camtech camshafts?

I'm looking at putting these tomei cams in, iv got a spare head that I'm putting together new springs bit of a port and full clean of everything. I'm trying to find out if the tomei poncam still use vct or it is disconnected? what is the real loss if I disconnect the vct? iv already got a set of hks cam gears as well. I'm aiming for the 400kw range and as low boost as possible. has anyone used the camtech camshafts?

they retain the vct on rb25's, you'd loose alot of low rpm torque,spool etc without it

Edited by SliverS2

I think a kinda good comparison of the low down loss is best experienced driving a ~300kW GT-R vs. a ~300kW GTS-t... you will feel how gutless the GT-R when it is not on song where as the GTS-t with VCT will feel more alive and come onto boost earlier.

It's a misconception many have, thinking longer duration cams bring on boost sooner, I have no idea which keyboard warrior started that rumour but it seems many still think that is the case. I recently had a mate ask me if he should drop in 264 cams into his car to bring on the boost earlier, I honestly wanted to slap him.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...