Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

When new, they come covered in a fine coating of a grease / oil to prevent corrosion. You should always wash them thoroughly before installing them.

theres supposed to be a protective coating on them that should be taken off, did anyone do that, i just dropped them in

  • 3 months later...

I'm looking at putting these tomei cams in, iv got a spare head that I'm putting together new springs bit of a port and full clean of everything. I'm trying to find out if the tomei poncam still use vct or it is disconnected? what is the real loss if I disconnect the vct? iv already got a set of hks cam gears as well. I'm aiming for the 400kw range and as low boost as possible. has anyone used the camtech camshafts?

I'm looking at putting these tomei cams in, iv got a spare head that I'm putting together new springs bit of a port and full clean of everything. I'm trying to find out if the tomei poncam still use vct or it is disconnected? what is the real loss if I disconnect the vct? iv already got a set of hks cam gears as well. I'm aiming for the 400kw range and as low boost as possible. has anyone used the camtech camshafts?

they retain the vct on rb25's, you'd loose alot of low rpm torque,spool etc without it

Edited by SliverS2

I think a kinda good comparison of the low down loss is best experienced driving a ~300kW GT-R vs. a ~300kW GTS-t... you will feel how gutless the GT-R when it is not on song where as the GTS-t with VCT will feel more alive and come onto boost earlier.

It's a misconception many have, thinking longer duration cams bring on boost sooner, I have no idea which keyboard warrior started that rumour but it seems many still think that is the case. I recently had a mate ask me if he should drop in 264 cams into his car to bring on the boost earlier, I honestly wanted to slap him.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...