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haha,

car started running on 5 cylinders, changed injector.

running on 6.. but still missing.

hmmmmm, so i borrowed my mates coil loom and boom! running smoother. another fault was that for some reason the fuel rail is leaking air, so once i had that pressed in it was running smoother than princess sparkles.

341098_4460810201326_1411297537_o.jpg

Thanks haha. Just got back from a random cruise, went off roadong and was getting a kebab with my cousin when all these hotted up commys and Ford's rocked up so we joined them.

Off road was sick.

Mud so thick it was like concrete.

post-54148-0-50351600-1345310742_thumb.jpg

Sup, I'm hungover bad so ill make this short and sweet.

Bought myself a nice birthday present yesterday.....

http://i49.tinypic.com/35l6jyf.jpg

Someone please embed this for me, I can't work out how to do it on phone..

Thanks Corey, basically I didn't want to go to all this effort and put the car on fake wheels.

That said these model bbs are factory on some 33Rs so it ties in with the OEM+ style I hope to achieve.

Next set of wheels will either be SLs or rpf1s

620375_480888335255071_2023124232_o.jpg

I WANT THIS NOW.

who can help me find one?

anyways, thanks guys. splittin the rims today and sending the lips away to have the rash fixed and repolished.

im not sure if i want to have them relipped to 9.5 (they will become +14) or keep the slant lips which are a bit rare.. or find 17 to 18" slant lip steps.... the holy grail of BBS RS'

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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