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  • 2 years later...

I have HKS GT-SS which is the same as -9s and I have HKS Intake pipings, and I have shuffling issue during light throttles.

I will install the stock intake back on and see if it helps the issue.

Yeh that or you could try one of those splitter plates or extended hard pipework to try to minimize it. All you have to try to achieve is to either make the two jets of air merge more smoothly so that the turbos don't fight each other, or, reduce the efficiency of the turbo a little bit my re-installing the stock intake plumbing as you've suggested. I guess it's whatever you can afford to do ;-) Good luck!

I get a little shuffle when going uphill in 5th at 110, turbos are spooling and load increases bam shuffle shuffle, but for its easy to avoid. All I have is a hard pipe kit with standard twin turbo pipe.

The question is, how bad is your shuffling? Majority of it I find is tune related.

I'm running the stock intake pipework and "twin turbo" pipework still and have no issues what so ever. Would be nice to get less-restrictive pipework one day tho!

The stock pipework will flow 500kw at least, beyond that you are in unknown territory, and piping will be the least of your issues.

As above. Not sure how much there is in changing the pipework. Sean Morris over in the states did a back to back with the "twin turbo pipe mod" and said there was 8-10 hp with that.

For what it's worth I'm making 470 plus rwkw through 5's on all stock pipes including the stock airbox.

Spend the coin elsewhere.

Well gents it's not all about dyno power figures.

It's also about responsiveness and where and how the torque is produced. Obviously the smoother the air flows the better. From a physics point of view everything should just come on sooner and harder with a more free-flowing system. It may not generate that much more HP but it might run better and more efficiently.

Sure, the stock system might be able to pass enough air for a 500kw setup but how much energy would be wasted trying to make that happen? The stock setup is good but how those two air jets merge could be done a lot better - hence why people go for a hard pipe setup with a very acute angle of merging.

It's all about making best possible say, 300kw. The best possible curve. Not just any old curve with 300kw reached somewhere, but the best curve with the most "meat" under the curve line (which equates to torque).

  • 1 month later...

I have recently purchased a 32R it has -9s and it shuffles really bad in 5th going up hill at around 80-90ks. I have to change back a gear for it to make any boost, I can put my foot flat and it just wont go anywhere. also noticed it shuffle a little in 4th if its to low down in the rev range but I can accelerate out of it. I have full standard intakes and piping. has full exhaust and hks actuators. I saw someone say it also depends on how the actualtors are set up. looser or tighter would make this worse ? also I only have a standard computer still

A lot can be tuned out.

Get the "twin turbo pipe mod" done, a decent computer, make sure the actuators are set up the same and a tuner that knows what they're doing. You shouldn't really be shuffling with baby -9's.

Hi Sean, yeh like Paul said, there shouldn't really be any shuffle with -9's. Do you also still run your factory recirc valves along with the rest of your stock intake plumbing?

The only thing not standard on my -9 setup is a set of pod filters and mine is shuffle free (despite my concerns from back when this thread was started ;) )

As far as im aware all the blow off vavle piping and everything is still all standard. I do have a pair of pod filers but thats it. I might check the actuators are set up the same as the rods are adjustable so could be out of whack. And yeah I am planning to get an ecu and retuned. Thanks guys.

Sounds like a plan. If you're not doing so already, use a foot pump with a gauge on it to sync those two actuators. Actually hook the pump up behind the Y piece that joins the two sets of actuator vac lines and then gradually "pump them up" and keep an eye on when they both budge, then crack and then gradually open. If one does anything sooner than the other then adjust rod's tension.

I had to wind on about 5-7mm of pre-load on to my rods to make them hold a solid 17 pounds. (my wastegates stay solidly shut till about 13-14 pounds and then open up from there to give 17 pounds but I still need to get myself an EBC to sharpen those last couple of pounds off - mines basically an all-mechanical boost setup at the moment without bleed valve or EBC)

You might even find that on your setup (with pump attached) that your wastegates start to creep open as low as 7-8 pounds with the aftermarket actuators...makes these -9's quite spongy! I gained a good 1000rpm or so when I first tensioned them up properly..

But yes, definitely get your computer sorted out along with some adjustable cam gears, coil packs and injectors (to be safe) before winding up any boost man. It's a bit crap doing this stuff on the factory computer - tried it for shits and giggles on my own car with pretty poor results.

Hey guys just thought id add in here aswell. Im having another issue at the moment which I have posted in another thread also where I have low boost 7-8psi and high boost 12ish psi. The car decides by itself which one it likes to run. Normally high boost for the first 15-20 mins of running then goes to low boost for quite a while. But anyway I noticed tonight that when the turbos shuffle really bad im only getting the low boost. Where as if I go up hill when its running good on 12psi I can bot make the car shuffle at all. So im thinking they are linked. Would this lead tou to think its a timing issue ? Something is pulling timing out of it? Because also when its only running low boost it feels slugish off of boost too.

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